Hi, in my earlier post on my wool Sapporo Coat, I mentioned that I would be doing a follow-up post on lining the Sapporo Coat. So here it is!
This is a Papercut Patterns design, which is available as a printed pattern ($30 NZD) and as a PDF. I bought my pattern at Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics. There are just a few pattern pieces, the front and the back, which uses the same three pieces you use for the fashion fabric.
Here’s the lining cut and sewn. I used a very nice black warm coat lining from Britex Fabrics. It was flannel-backed on one side and a smooth and shiny satin on the other ($16/yard, 60 wide). The smooth side makes it easy for your coat to slide on and the flannel side makes it super easy to cut and sew. Britex calls this fabric “warm-back coat lining” and carries it in six colors, including brown, silver and royal blue ($15.99/yard).
The pattern calls for lining fabric that’s 60″ wide but you could use 44″ wide, just get another yard or so of fabric so you’ll have enough to cut all the lining pieces.
The Sapporo Coat lining is hand sewn to the sleeves and machine sewn along the front and the hem. You leave an opening in the side seam so you can turn it inside out. If you haven’t lined a coat before, it’s pretty basic. You place the right side of the lining so it’s facing the right side of your fashion fabric and then you sew them together and turn it inside out. It’s similar to making a pillow, just a different shape.
I pinned the lining to the facing, right sides together. I used a lot of quilting pins because longer pins are easier to work with the thick coat fabric.
Here’s a closer look.
Here’s the opening I left in the side seam. This is where I’ll turn the coat inside out.
When you sew the facing, you stop 3/8 inch (1 cm) short of the hem because the corners of the coat will be sewn together last, which you’ll see below.
Next I pinned the coat hem to the lining and sewed this seam, beginning and ending 3/8 inch (1 cm) from each end.
Here’s a close-up of the bottom hem pinned to the end. When you sew this seam, remember to stop 3/8 inch (1 cm) from the end.
Here’s a look at the lining corner after I sewed the bottom hem.
Then I sewed the diagonal seam and trimmed it so it would come to a point when I turned the Sapporo Coat lining inside out.
The Sapporo Coat lining is now attached to the facing and hem and looks like this.
Now the coat is ready to be turned inside out. So I pushed the right side of the coat through the opening in the lining.
Now all that’s left is attaching the lining to the sleeves. This was the tedious part of lining the Sapporo Coat because you hand sew the sleeve lining to the sleeve. They are wide sleeves so it took a while.
This is my review of the Pilvi Coat pattern as it appears on Pattern Review (I’m csews there). You can read my review here. Some of the information is repeated in my post about the Pilvi Coat but there’s some more info on construction details here.
Pattern Description: Coat with a simple neckline (no collar), 3/4 raglan sleeves and side pockets. There isn’t any lining, just front and neck facings, no buttons or closures unless you want to add one at the top. The shorter version of the coat is the Pilvi Jacket. You use the same pattern pieces but shorten the front and back pieces.
Pattern Sizing: XS to XL
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, but the facing construction can be a little confusing so pay close attention to the pattern pieces. The front facing is not a separate pattern piece. It’s part of the front pattern piece. You fold it back and the top of that front piece attaches to the shoulder neck facing. The shoulder neck facing attaches to the back neck facing. You topstitch the entire facing in one long stitch line.
NOTE: The pattern pieces for this book are printed on both sides of two large sheets. This means you must trace the pattern pieces – similar to what you do for Japanese pattern books or Burda. The shoulder and back neck facings are traced using the back pattern piece and the sleeve pattern piece.
There is a helpful pattern sheet guide in the back of the book that shows exactly where each pattern piece is located on the pattern sheets. The Pilvi Coat pattern diagram is on page 153.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the clean design and the pockets. The top stitching of the facing is a nice design detail. But you really need to baste the facing in place if you want that top stitching to look good. I pressed, pinned, and basted the facing using a ladder stitch before I topstitched. If you don’t want to topstitch, you could easily hand stitch it in place.
Fabric Used: I really don’t know what the fiber content is. It’s a heavyweight home dec fabric I got on sale a few years ago. It’s a black synthetic something with blue cords woven in. I’m guessing poly with maybe cotton cords? This version was my wearable muslin. I used a bright cotton print for my shoulder and back neck facings and the pockets. The book recommends “wool coating, textured mid-weight wool, mid-weight cotton fabric.” Using heavyweight fabric can result in bulky seams around the arms.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I traced size L and then before I cut my fabric, I decided to grade up to XL in the shoulders. I have broad shoulders so I thought it would be good to have a little more ease. Size L is Bust: 38″-40.5″/96.5 cm-102.9 cm; Waist: 30″-32″/76.2 cm-81.3 am; Hips: 41″-43″/ 104.1 cm-109.2 cm. I’m a size 16 in Vogue patterns.
I finished my hem with black bias tape because I had some in a drawer and then I hand-stitched it in place using a catch stitch. The book calls for topstitching the hem but I prefer an invisible stitch.
The book says you can add a button at the top. When I wore it, the front opening flapped around in a light breeze, which was a little annoying. I considered adding a button but it would distract from the clean neckline. I got a great suggestion from Britex Fabrics – use a hidden hook and eye. I got a covered hook and eye in blue, which matched my fabric. So I have the option of leaving it open or using the hook.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I plan on making another version with a fun print. It’s a style that is very versatile. I can wear this coat with a lot of things. It can be dressed up or down.
Conclusion: I really like the shape of this coat. I’ve got a small bust so it fit me perfectly there. I think if you are larger than a B cup, you may need to make some adjustments to the pattern. If you use fabric that’s not medium- or heavyweight, the front facings will likely flop down. If you don’t want that, then you should add some interfacing on the front facing. You can just trace a piece by following the lines of the front pattern piece along the fold line.
The coat feel comfortable to wear but I noticed that in the back there are slight drag lines around the upper arms. This could be because of the fabric I chose. It doesn’t feel tight. But I think when I make it again, I’ll just make a straight size XL.
For more photos and construction details, read my blog post here.
Hi! I got the sewing book Lotta Jansdotter Everyday Style (affiliate link here) for my birthday earlier this year. It features several wardrobe basics – skirts, tops, pants, and jackets, plus bags. most of the projects in the book use her fabric designs. (You can see her fabric collections at Windham Fabrics and her other products on her website here.)
I decided to make the Pilvi Coat, which features a simple neckline (no collar), 3/4 raglan sleeves and side pockets. There isn’t any lining, just front and neck facings, no buttons or closures unless you want to add one at the top. There’s also a shorter hip-length version, the Pilvi Jacket, in the book. It’s a great coat for the Bay Area, which doesn’t get too cold much of the year. I really like how this turned out. It’s quite versatile. I can wear it with pants or skirts – and hats, of course.
The day I took these photos, it was a rare cloudy day so the light wasn’t great. But I do love the orange wall! It’s an apartment building that’s painted a really bright orange. It looks duller in my photos than it appears in real life. I’m wearing a vintage beret in these photos, which I got from All Things Vintage in Oakland.
All of the patterns are printed on two large sheets. Similar to the patterns in Japanese sewing books or Burda magazine, the pattern pieces overlap and are printed on both sides of the pattern sheets. If you are unfamiliar with patterns printed on both sides, this means you can’t cut the pattern pieces or you’ll cut into other pattern pieces. You must get some tracing paper and trace the pieces.
I made size L (bust: 38-40.5″ (96.5-102.9 cm); waist: 30-32″ (76.2-81.3 cm), hips: 41-43″ (104.1 cm-109.2 cm)). After I traced a size L, I had second thoughts and thought I should add more ease to the shoulders. I have broad shoulders so I was afraid they might be a little too fitted. I have a small bust, which works well with this coat. If you have a larger bust, you may need to make some adjustments to the pattern.
I taped more tracing paper to the front and back pattern pieces where the sleeves attach and traced size XL there and used my French curve get back to size L. I didn’t make any other adjustments as this was my test version.
It can be tricky finding all the pieces but there is a nice pattern sheet guide in the back of the book that highlights in this salmon pink color, the location of each pattern piece. Page 153 shows where you’ll find the Pilvi Coat pieces are on the pages. I didn’t know the guides were there until after I traced my pieces. Before you trace a pattern, consult the pattern sheet guides, which start on page 152.
I decided to make my first version of the Pilvi from a home dec fabric I got on sale from Discount Fabrics in San Francisco years ago. It’s a medium/heavyweight corded synthetic fabric, likely nylon and maybe there’s some cotton in the cords, which fray a lot as you’ll see in the photos below. The cords are a royal blue and they are woven in with this black synthetic fiber. The cords make it seem striped. It’s hard to see how blue those cords are in these photos.
The book recommends using “wool coating, textured mid-weight wool, mid-weight cotton fabric.” My fabric was a bit hefty because of the cords. I used a colorful lightweight cotton print for the back neck facing pieces and the pocket bags. I got the facing fabric for free at an American Sewing Guild stash sale. It was in a box of free scraps.
As I mentioned earlier, this is an unlined coat. I decided to pink my side seams. You can see a sliver of the pocket bag in this photo.
The front facing is not a separate piece – it’s part of the front jacket pattern piece. The front edge of the coat is where the facing folds back. The top part of the front facing attaches to the neck facing at the top of the sleeve. The sleeve facing attaches to the back neck facing.
NOTE: When you trace/cut the back and sleeve pieces, be sure to cut the entire piece, which includes the facings. Then you need to trace the sleeve and back facing pieces. If you don’t trace/cut the entire back and sleeve pieces, they will be 2 inches short and won’t line up with the front pieces.
The entire facing is topstitched in place in one long stitch line. I pinned the facing in place and then I basted using a ladder stitch. I wanted to make sure it wouldn’t shift as I stitched. I used washi tape as my fabric guide.
Here’s another look at the inside of the jacket – as I was wearing it. That’s the front facing from the inside.
And here are more photos of the finished coat. Gotta love the pockets! Note: the pockets may be placed a bit low for some people. I have really long arms so the placement was fine for me. (Or maybe I incorrectly marked the pocket placement?) Be sure to check the placement before you sew them in place or you may be reaching pretty low to retrieve what’s in your pocket.
I really love these sunglasses. I forgot to put them on until after I had taken many photos so I only took a couple of photos wearing them.
Here’s the back. I think the coat fits pretty well. I like the length and the shape.
I will be making it again with a fun cotton print. I wonder if I need a little more ease around the armscye or maybe the bicep area. See those wrinkles around my bicep? The sleeves don’t feel tight so maybe it’s the fabric, which is a heavyweight home dec fabric. I think I’ll cut size XL for my next version.
Here’s the back detail. You can see some slight wrinkles in the fabric, which are the result of the fabric sitting folded up on a shelf for a few years. I pressed it but you can still see them on the back and part of the front. Maybe an other pressing will get those out.
When I was walking down the street to my photo location, the jacket flapped open in a light breeze, which was a little annoying. I needed to put some sort of closure at the top. A few days later I donned the coat and stopped by Britex Fabrics in San Francisco and asked Douglas, one of the store’s stylish fabric mavens for his opinion. He said that a button could be distracting and may clash with other things I wear with the coat. Good point! So he suggested a hook and eye that would be hidden.
So I traipsed to the third floor of Britex and went to the notions counter asking to see their hooks. There are fabric covered hooks in different colors. I was shown a blue one that was a close match to my fabric. Perfect! I love the hidden hook. You have the option of leaving it unhooked and no one can see it. I like it a lot better than a button. Then I can wear a necklace and I don’t have to worry about how it looks with a button. Dritz makes covered hooks and eyes but the color selection is limited to black and white, and maybe brown. I found other colors on Fine Fabrics website here.
Here’s a close-up shot of the hook and eye. It’s much smaller than this – only about 3/8 inch (1 cm) tall. These are often used when sewing fur.
I sewed it on…
… and it looks like this when hooked. I added the hook after I took photos of me wearing it. You can see my topstitching here – it follows the edge of the facing and continues over the neck facing and back down the other side of the front facing.
The topstitching will be visible so if you don’t want to see it, then you need to hand stitch it in place. I decided to try the topstitching and I like the way it looks. But if you are going to topstitch you really need to take the time to pin and baste the facings in place so the top stitching will look good.
The pattern calls for finishing the hem by folding it over 1/4 inch (6 mm) and then 1 inch (2.5 cm) and topstitching in place. Because my fabric is on the heavy side, I opted to finish the edge with bias tape and sew it down with a catch stitch. Here’s the front facing and hem finishing.
I really love this coat – the only drawback is that because it’s most synthetic, it doesn’t really breathe. But we do get a lot of cool weather in the Bay Area. Summer nights can get pretty cool and spring and fall can be cool as well. So I can wear this coat at least half of the year.
The next one I made will be from this fun fabric – ASCII art (!) – which I got from Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics a few months ago. I made this wearable muslin so I could make the Pilvi Coat from this fabric.
So stay tuned for that coat. What’s in your sewing queue?
Once again, jackets and coats caught my eye as they did last month.
I’m not sure what type of fabric this black-and-white coat is made of but it’s certainly eye-catching! It seems rather fuzzy and has a unique pattern of swirls on it. I was walking down Sutter St. in San Francisco when I noticed these two women. They turned down Grant St. before I could snap more than one or two photos.
The other two photos were snapped as the women were on the move. I really like the coat with the shawl collar . The pattern on the fabric is great and the slight flare to the bottom half is very nice as well. I shot that photo as this woman was walking into the Westfield SF Centre mall on Market St.
As for the last photo, I really liked the color combination of this bright green jacket with a yellow pleated top and a horizontally black-and-white striped knit skirt. I shot the photo at dusk so the lighting was rather bad and she was walking fast so this blurry photo was the best I could do.
This week’s StyleEye focuses on outerwear. I saw some nice coats on women either on the street or on BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit), the commuter train in the SF Bay Area. I take BART to and from work and often spot people wearing something eye-catching as they’re waiting for the train, exiting or entering the station, or even on the train.
I’m usually capturing people in motion so the photos aren’t necessarily in focus. Once in a while I’ll ask people if I can take their picture, but that’s only if I feel they aren’t in a hurry and if I feel OK about asking a complete stranger if they’d mind if I snapped a photo.
Sometimes I feel a teeny bit like a stalker – especially if the person is ahead of me and I’m hurrying to catch up with them and whipping out my iPhone to get the photo. Hmmm.
Well, it’s kinda like what Bill Cunningham does for the New York Times, right? But I’m not trying to compare myself to him – after all, he’d never publish blurry photos. Plus he’s a professional and I’m strictly amateur. (For more on Bill, see my review of Bill Cunningham New York.)