Pattern Review: Pilvi Coat

This is my review of the Pilvi Coat pattern as it appears on Pattern Review (I’m csews there). You can read my review here. Some of the information is repeated in my post about the Pilvi Coat but there’s some more info on construction details here.

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Pattern Description: Coat with a simple neckline (no collar), 3/4 raglan sleeves and side pockets. There isn’t any lining, just front and neck facings, no buttons or closures unless you want to add one at the top. The shorter version of the coat is the Pilvi Jacket. You use the same pattern pieces but shorten the front and back pieces.

Pattern Sizing: XS to XL

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, but the facing construction can be a little confusing so pay close attention to the pattern pieces. The front facing is not a separate pattern piece. It’s part of the front pattern piece. You fold it back and the top of that front piece attaches to the shoulder neck facing. The shoulder neck facing attaches to the back neck facing. You topstitch the entire facing in one long stitch line.

NOTE: The pattern pieces for this book are printed on both sides of two large sheets. This means you must trace the pattern pieces – similar to what you do for Japanese pattern books or Burda. The shoulder and back neck facings are traced using the back pattern piece and the sleeve pattern piece.

There is a helpful pattern sheet guide in the back of the book that shows exactly where each pattern piece is located on the pattern sheets. The Pilvi Coat pattern diagram is on page 153.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the clean design and the pockets. The top stitching of the facing is a nice design detail. But you really need to baste the facing in place if you want that top stitching to look good. I pressed, pinned, and basted the facing using a ladder stitch before I topstitched. If you don’t want to topstitch, you could easily hand stitch it in place.

Fabric Used: I really don’t know what the fiber content is. It’s a heavyweight home dec fabric I got on sale a few years ago. It’s a black synthetic something with blue cords woven in. I’m guessing poly with maybe cotton cords? This version was my wearable muslin. I used a bright cotton print for my shoulder and back neck facings and the pockets. The book recommends “wool coating, textured mid-weight wool, mid-weight cotton fabric.” Using heavyweight fabric can result in bulky seams around the arms.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I traced size L and then before I cut my fabric, I decided to grade up to XL in the shoulders. I have broad shoulders so I thought it would be good to have a little more ease. Size L is Bust: 38″-40.5″/96.5 cm-102.9 cm; Waist: 30″-32″/76.2 cm-81.3 am; Hips: 41″-43″/ 104.1 cm-109.2 cm. I’m a size 16 in Vogue patterns.

I finished my hem with black bias tape because I had some in a drawer and then I hand-stitched it in place using a catch stitch. The book calls for topstitching the hem but I prefer an invisible stitch.

The book says you can add a button at the top. When I wore it, the front opening flapped around in a light breeze, which was a little annoying. I considered adding a button but it would distract from the clean neckline. I got a great suggestion from Britex Fabrics – use a hidden hook and eye. I got a covered hook and eye in blue, which matched my fabric. So I have the option of leaving it open or using the hook.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I plan on making another version with a fun print. It’s a style that is very versatile. I can wear this coat with a lot of things. It can be dressed up or down.

Conclusion: I really like the shape of this coat. I’ve got a small bust so it fit me perfectly there. I think if you are larger than a B cup, you may need to make some adjustments to the pattern. If you use fabric that’s not medium- or heavyweight, the front facings will likely flop down. If you don’t want that, then you should add some interfacing on the front facing. You can just trace a piece by following the lines of the front pattern piece along the fold line.

The coat feel comfortable to wear but I noticed that in the back there are slight drag lines around the upper arms. This could be because of the fabric I chose. It doesn’t feel tight. But I think when I make it again, I’ll just make a straight size XL.

For more photos and construction details, read my blog post here.