Sewing pattern height – a chart – 2021 update

Everyone’s body is different. We come in all shapes and sizes, which can make it challenging to find a sewing pattern that fits your body. Luckily, some indie sewing patterns design for a particular body type. For example, Deer and Doe designs for an hour-glass shape, Cashmerette Patterns for curvy figures (cup sizes C–H), Sew DIY for tall women, and Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Patterns (SBCC) and Petite Plus for petite ladies. Each size is designed for a particular bust, waist and hip measurement, but not every company provides the sewing pattern height.

I’m 5′ 7″ (170 cm) and when I first wrote this post in 2017, I hadn’t really given much thought to the height that patterns are designed for. That year I finished the Mimosa Culottes by Named Clothing, a Finnish pattern company that designs for 5’8″. (You can see my version of the culottes here.)

Named - Lexi A-line top and Mimosa Culottes

After that, I made Megan Nielsen’s Flint Pants. I discovered that she designs for a height 5′ 9″ (175 cm).

Behind the chart

That experience made me want to find out what height pattern companies use for their designs.And that led me to make a chart listing sewing pattern heights. The height they design for is typically the height of their fit model. I began with companies whose patterns I’ve made and then added more several others.

This is by no means a comprehensive list. But I am trying to update it annually. I did my first update in 2020.

Sewing pattern height -blog post -  illustration of women of differnt heights and bodies

Size ranges

This year I added a column listing the size ranges for each pattern. Since I first began this chart, many companies have expanded their size range, are in the midst of expanding their size range, or offer new patterns . adding additional sizes or offer some patterns with an expanded size range; they are indicated with the single asterisk in the size column. Underneath the chart is a bulleted list of those companies.

I also updated the links to the size charts. There were many changes, including the links to the Big Four (Butterick, McCalls, Simplicity, Vogue), since they are now owned by British company Design Group. I linked to the U.S. pages for size charts. But you can also find measurements for Butterick, McCalls and Vogue on this PDF.

Sewing pattern heights

My 2021 chart includes links to each company’s body measurements/size chart (if they have one or a link to a pattern with the size chart), the height they design for, cup size, and size range.

Sewing Co. Size ChartHeight: inHeight: cmCupSize Range
100 Acts of Sewing5′ 5″165CXS-4X
The Assembly Line5′ 6″-5′ 7″168-170XS-L, XL-3XL*
Blueprints for Sewing5′ 5″165BA-P
Burda women’s regular5′ 6 1/4″168B6-34
Burda women’s petite5′ 3″160B6-20
Burda women’s tall5′ 9 1/4″176B6-20
Butterick-misses5′ 5″-5′ 6″165-168B4-26
Butterick-petites5′ 2″-5′ 3″157-160B4-26
Cashmerette5′ 6″168C-H12-32
Chalk & Notch5’7″170A/B, C/D0-24
Christine Haynes5′ 6″168BXS-4X
Closet Core Patterns5′ 6″168B0-20
Closet Core Patterns (expanded)5’6″168D14-30
Deer and Doe5′ 6″168C, D34-52
Friday Pattern Company5′ 5″165BXS-XXL, XS-4X, XS-7X*
Grainline Studio
(0-18)
5’5″165B0-18
Grainline Studio
(14-30)
5’5″165D14-30
Helen’s Closet5′ 6″168B, D0-30
In the Folds5′ 7″170BA-J
Itch to Stitch5′ 6″168A-DD00-20, 22-40*
Marilla Walker
(size range 1)
5’6″168B1-8, 1-10*
Marilla Walker
(size range 2)
5’6″168D6-14
McCalls – misses5′ 5″-5′ 6″165-168B4-26
McCalls – petites5′ 2″-5′ 3″157-160B4-26
Megan Nielsen5′ 9″175B0-20 (also XS-XL)
Megan Nielsen (curve)5’9″ 175D14-30
Merchant & Mills5′ 6″168D6-18, XXS-XXL**
Muna and Broad5’6″168flexibleA-G, A-M*
Named Clothing5′ 8″172B0-24
Paper Theory Patterns5′ 7″170C6-28*
Papercut Patterns5′ 7″170B/C***1-8
Paprika Patterns5′ 7″170B-C1-10, 1-13*
Pauline Alice5′ 5″165B34-44, 34-48*
Petite Plus Patterns5′-5′ 4″ 152.4- 162.5D12-24
Pipe Dream Patterns (Beatha)5′ 5″165C6-20
Pipe Dream Patterns (Saorsa)5’10”177DD20-34
SBCC Patterns5′ 1″163B/CXXS-XL
SBCC Patterns (expanded)5′ 1″163D/EL-4X
Seamwork (misses)5’8″172C00-16
Seamwork (curvy)5’9″175DD12-26
Sew DIY5′ 10″177C0-32
Sew House Seven
(standard)
5′ 6″-5’7″168-170B/C00-20
Sew House Seven
(curvy)
5’6″-5’7″168-170C/D-G/H18-34
Sew Liberated5’5″-5’7″168-170C0-24, 0-30/34*
Sewaholic5’4″162B0-20
Simplicity-misses5′ 5″-5′ 6″165-168B4-26
Simplicity-petites5’4″162B4-26
Simplicity-women5′ 5″-5′ 6″165-16818W-32W
Style Arc5′ 6″168B4-30
Today’s Fit by Sandra Betzina5’5″-5’6″165-167A-J
True Bias5′ 5″165C0-18, 14-30*
Vogue-misses5′ 5″-5′ 6″165-168B4-26
Vogue-petites5′ 2″-5′ 3″157-160B4-26
Wiksten5′ 7″170B0-18, 0-22

* These pattern companies have some patterns available in larger sizes or are working on making all patterns available in an expanded size range:

  • Some Assembly Line patterns are currently available in larger sizes. See their FAQs for info on larger sizes.
  • Friday Pattern Company is working on making all designs available in the expanded size range, some go up to XXL, others to 4X or 7X. The goal is for all designs to go up to 7X.
  • Some Itch to Stitch patterns are available in plus sizes but the majority are not.
  • Marilla Walker‘s Belemnite Dress is available in extended sizes (bust 42″-48″/107 cm-147 cm)
  • Plus-size pattern company Muna and Broad is extending its size range from A–G (bust 40″/102 cm–52″/132 cm) to A–M (M: 83″/211 cm).
  • Paper Theory is adding sizes 22-28 to all of its patterns.
  • All Paprika Patterns are available in sizes 1-10, some are available up to size 13; they are working on making all designs sized up to 13.
  • Newer Pauline Alice patterns go up to 48.
  • Sew Liberated size range varies depending on the pattern: 0-24, 0-30, 22-34.
  • Some True Bias patterns are available in sizes 0-18 and some 14-30.

**Merchant & Mills says their patterns are not tailored/fitted so they don’t really design for a particular cup size but if they had to say, they say D. Some patterns are available in size range 6-18 and others in XXS-XXL (6-28).

***Papercut Patterns says it usually designs for B/C for sampling but, “We always advise to go by bust measurement … rather than cup size.”

Not all of the indie designers include this info on their websites so in some cases, I contacted the companies to find out. They graciously answered my queries within a few days. I hope you find the information useful.

Height is not everything

Sewing pattern height is an interesting measurement but it’s not the most important one. Patterns can easily be adjusted for length. The critical measurements are bust, waist and hips. The finished measurements are also very helpful when it comes to pants and skirts. When I make skirts or pants, all I first look at the hip measurement to pick my size. What measurements are the most important for you when you choose a size to sew?

Note: This post was originally published on May 1, 2017. I first updated it in 2020.

Sewing pattern height - 2021 update - chart listing Big Four and indie pattern heights that they are designed for, size ranges, cup size (The Assembly Line, Cashmerette, Deer and Doe, Friday Pattern Company, Named, Megan Nielsen, Papercut Patterns, and more)

 

Author: Chuleenan

Chuleenan sews, collects hats and shoes, and is a fabric addict. She is also the organizer for the Bay Area Sewists Meetup group.

49 thoughts on “Sewing pattern height – a chart – 2021 update”

  1. What a lot of work to have collated all this information! Thank you so much for sharing it. I am 5’2″ and have got used to adjusting the back (neck to waist) length over the years for Big 4 patterns; it’s difficult sometimes with the Indie companies as they don’t often specify neck to waist length, and you’re right, people’s proportions vary hugely. It may be useful asking them to specify more fit measurements on the pattern/ envelope to make adjustments easier. (Not expecting you to do this, though!!) Thanks again

  2. Thank you so much for this very helpful chart!
    As a 5′ 10″ triangle shape, I’m so happy to know which pattern companies remember that there are tall women in this world!
    🙂 Chris

  3. I found this very helpful. Since the list didn’t mention Patrones magazine (and I happened to be looking for it) I would like to add that their patterns are drafted for approximately 168cm.

    1. I’m so glad you found it helpful. Thanks for mentioning Patrones magazine. I will continue to update it. So once I find out other info about their size range, etc., I will add it to the list.

  4. I love this so much! I feel like I’m always looking for this information, especially when I try a new pattern company. Thank you for creating it!! I’m wondering, would you consider making a link to a .pdf of this chart you’ve created? I, for one, would love being able to print it off and keep it handy.

  5. This is so incredibly helpful!! I’m only 5’ in height, so shortening is a must. I’m keen to know what height Liesl+co. draft for.

  6. Hi Chuleenan! This is indeed a very helpful list, thank you for the great information! But I have a different question: do you have an idea where I could find a similar comparison of the pattern companies, but based on “waist placement”? (as in: distance of waist from the shoulders / from back of neck). I did a lot of adjustments in the last two years, and I just noticed now that my waist is sitting really up high. : (

    I also don’t know how to search for this kind of thing on google, I would be grateful for any kind of tips. Thank you!

    1. Sorry for the belated reply – but I don’t know of any chart that would list waist placement. I recommend measuring the pattern pieces and comparing the shoulder-to-waist measurement with your own measurement. Then you can adjust accordingly.

  7. I have a sister whose waist is 52″, she is 5’11”.
    Can you give info on sewing for large people, especially relatives who don’t like advice??

    1. Hi- I’m not sure what advice you’re seeking – fitting, pattern selection, advising someone on what would suit their figure? Maria Denmark recently sent out a newsletter that said to pick out one or two attributes to emphasize. For her, it was her waist and legs. She showed how choosing a pattern to emphasize her wait helped to hide her belly. It was a great observation. Maybe that will help you with your sister. Good luck!

  8. Funny I had always read that Burda regular sizes were designed for 1m70, not 68. They design for a B cup, but the plus sizes (say 46+) are for a D cup, so you might want to buy the same pattern a different size range according to your cup size, if you are an intermediate size, or grade up or down a bit.

    In any case the big 4 design for a B cup (except of course for the patterns deliberately designed to offer a range of cup sizes

  9. Wow, I had no idea patterns were designed for a height of only 5’6” – I’m 5’10”, no wonder normal skirts are often mini skirts on me!
    By the way, I’m Australian and we definitely say pants rather than “trousers” here!

  10. Such a useful list!
    Thanks for putting it together 🙂

    As my luck would have it,
    The one I was looking for was Simplicity.

    They design their patterns for
    Misses and Womens: 5’5″ – 5’6″
    Misses and Womens Petite: 5’4″ (and under)

    Thought I’d share it in case you want to post an updated list, ever 🙂
    (I was redirected to your site from Cashmerette blog, in their article about fitting workshops.)

    Many thanks again!

  11. Hi. Good list. I thought you would have included Burda given they’re made for taller girls?
    As well as having Petite, Regular & tall sizes??

    1. I’ve been adding to the list. I started out with companies whose patterns I’ve sewn or designers I’ve met. It’s certainly not a comprehensive list. I will keep adding to it. I will certainly add Burda. I thought I added the petite measurement for the Big Four, but I guess I forgot! SBCC (in the chart) designs for petite figures.

  12. Very comprehensive post Chuleenan, being into sewing industry from so many years, weird that i have never heard of SBCC. Thanks for giving me a new term. I have been sewing on Megan Nielsen patterns.Will check out other patterns for tall girls.

  13. Thank you!!! I hadn’t heard of SBCC before – I’m still too short for them, but that’s so much closer to me than everywhere else :).

    1. I’m too short for them, too, Dott–only 4’6″! But I’ve been sewing for 60 years, and am pretty good at shorening patterns by now!! Still, it would be nice not to have to take so much out in the lenght!

      What does SBCC stand for, anyway? Are they in the US? Guess I’d better do a search!

  14. Thank you for this list! I’m 5’9″ and primarily sew Big 4. Will check out other pattern companies based on tall women.

  15. Huh. What’s the deal with Papercut’s 5 inch range? Did they say? I’m 5’8″+ and while their pants are generally only an inch shy, their tops are 3+ or more, so I agree with their weird range given, but it’s so weird.

    1. Hi, I asked Papercut about the height range and they said: “The problem with height measurements is that everyone’s proportions are still very different. You can have two people at 170cm tall, but their torso and leg proportions might be very different, affecting the fit of every garment. So a better way to gauge fit is to always use the finished measurements stated.”

      This is a good point. I think I need to do a follow-up post on proportions.

      1. What a strange reply. What do my, or anyone’s, proportions have to do with their huge 5 inch range? Yes, yes, finished measurements and all that, but we are talking about their base sloper model, not mine, and their base has a 5″ discrepancy. I love their patterns, but it remains a bizarre response. I’ll have to go look at their patterns now… I wonder if their bust/waist/hip ratio is all over the board too, or if they at least stick to the same ratio throughout. Or do they have petite versions and something is just being lost in text conversation here? I’d never think to look for petite options.

    1. Glad you found it useful. Maybe a chart listing pattern companies that cater to a specific body type could be another blog post or chart.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.