• Bloglovin
  • Email
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer
  • Home
  • Skirts
  • Tops
  • Pants
  • Coats
  • Hats
  • Q&A
  • Sewing Tips

C Sews

Welcome to my sewing blog, where you'll find tips, patterns, fabric, fashion, and hats!

  • Home
  • Skirts
  • Tops
  • Dresses
  • Pants
  • Coats
  • Hats
  • Q&A
  • Sewing Tips
    • Bloglovin
    • Email
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest

My Spring for Cotton Dress – Construction Details

May 3, 2015 By Chuleenan 9 Comments

Hi,

I hope you’re enjoying some spring sewing! Have you sewed any eyelet fabric? If you have any tips, please pass them on. This was my first experience sewing with it.

A few days ago, I finished the dress I made for Lucky Lucille’s Spring for Cotton sewalong. The challenge was to make something from a vintage or vintage-inspired pattern using 100 percent cotton fabric. I went through my small stash of vintage patterns decided to make a sleeveless dress. This pattern was for a 36 bust, 28 waist, and 38 hips. I added a lining to my version.

Simplicity 2439 - vintage sewing pattern - csews.com

My waist and hips are bigger than the pattern (especially because I’ve gained about ten pounds since last year – the result of a busy job and not making time to exercise). My waist is about 30.5 inches (77.5 cm) and my hips 41 inches (104 cm). I made most of my adjustments before I cut my muslin, which you can read about in my post WIP: a Vintage Dress Pattern and Japanese Top. Here’s my brief summary of the flat pattern adjustments before I made my muslin:

  • 1/4″ small bust adjustment,
  • dropped armhole 1 inch,
  • added 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) to side seams of front and back bodice (total of 2 inches),
  • added 1/2 inch to skirt waist
  • added 3/4 inch to hip area.

Here’s what my muslin looked like (pardon the bad bathroom lighting). I decided to leave off the pocket detail because I didn’t really like it on me. They were decorative anyway, not actual pockets.

Muslin of dress - spring for cotton - csews.com

At first glance it looked like it fit quite well and I thought, great, now I can cut my fashion fabric. But when I turned around and looked at the back, I could see that there was a little gaping of the back neckline, which is a bit of a scoop neck that’s lower than the front neckline. Hmmmm. I had not encountered this issue before. But I hadn’t made a dress with a scoop back neckline either.

So I went online to see what pattern adjustment to make – and stumbled across Ginger Makes post: By Hand London Anna Dress: Back Neckline Adjustment. I don’t have narrow shoulders so this was the first-time pattern adjustment for me. Before I did anything to my pattern, I took off my muslin, pinched in where I thought most of the gaping occurred, then pinned it in pace with safety pins. I guess that 1/4-inch (slightly less than 1 cm) would do the trick.

1/4 inch back neckline adjustment - csews.com

Back bodice – pinned.
Bodice - back adjustment muslin - csews.com

I tried it on again and it looked good (sorry I didn’t take a photo of that), so I decided to skip making another muslin. I made a 1/4″ flat pattern adjustment, following Ginger Makes’ clear instructions. It was easy – just draw a line from the armhole to the area that gapes the most, cut along that line and overlap 1/4″. The point turner is where I sliced the pattern and overlapped it 1/4 inch. to see a larger version of this photo, click on it once and it will open another window, then click on the photo again, you’ll see a large version.

Back neckline adjustment - Simplicity 2439 vintage sewing pattern - csews.com

Then I did a bit of a reality check, tried on the muslin one last time and realized that the waist needed a little more ease. So I added another 1/4-inch (.6 cm) to the waist of the bodice and skirt, crossed my fingers, and began cutting my fashion fabric.

Meanwhile, I also did a muslin of the jacket but decided I didn’t like the boxy shape. So I didn’t make it.

Jacket - vintage Simplicity 2439 - Spring for cotton - csews.com

The challenge of making this dress is that I was using eyelet fabric for the first time and lining the entire dress with a contrast fabric. Here’s an image I posted on Instagram when I was shopping for my fabric at Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics for this dress.

Eyelet fabric with fuschia - csews.com

I chose the hot pink fabric for the color – more like a fuchsia – rather than its weight, which was quilt weight. I didn’t think it would make the dress layers too thick because the eyelet fabric was lightweight and had a bit of drape to it. So I thought they would balance each other out. As a general rule though, it’s better to match the drape/weight of the fabrics you’re sewing together. In retrospect, it would have been better to choose a lining fabric that was lighter weight as you’ll see below. But the challenge of this sewalong was to use 100 percent cotton and I liked this color so I went with it.

Materials

  • 3 1/2 yards eyelet fabric [amount for dress and jacket, which I didn’t make]
  • 3 yards of lining fabric
  • 1 1/4 yards of 3/4-inch ban-rol waistband interfacing
  • 1-inch buckle kit
  • Gutterman thread
  • Schmetz 60/10 needle

I got my fabric from Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley, ban-rol from Britex Fabrics (notions floor manager Natalie suggested that I use this for my belt), the buckle kit from Lacis in Berkeley. You can also buy the buckle kit at Lacis’s online store (search “buckle kit”).

As I began sewing this dress, I realized I needed to figure out if I would sew my hot pink lining fabric as lining or underlining. (For a good explanation of underlining, see Seamstress Erin’s post When to Underline your Sewing.) I decided that it would depend on the effect on the eyelet – and how thick the fabric would be. So the bodice was sewn as lining and parts of the skirt were sewn as lining and underlining.

I decided that the darts could all be sewn separately, rather than sewing the lining fabric together with the fashion fabric. so I sewed the all the darts first. Four in the front bodice…

vintage Simplicity 2439 - Bodice - front lining - csews.com

two in the back bodice…

vintage Simplicity 2439 back bodice - csews.com

and four in the skirt back. This is one side of the skirt back, which has a center seam and kick pleat.

vintage Simplicity 2439 - back skirt darts - csews.com

I also got a nice tip via Instagram from @sewbrooke, who blogs at Custom Style. She told me if the fabric seemed thick, I could press the darts one way for the lining and another way for the fashion fabric to take care of any bulk. I took her advice.

The directions called for cutting the darts and pressing them open, which I had not seen before. I posted that photo on my IG feed (@csews) and asked if I needed to do this. Brooke said that this is often done in menswear and more necessary with a suiting or wool fabric. So I just pressed my darts.

Dart instructions - csews.com

However, the pleats in the front needed to be sewn with both fabrics sandwiched together. Otherwise, you wouldn’t see any of the pink through the eyelet.

As you can see here, the darts are slim enough that you don’t really notice that there isn’t any pink behind them. The pleats are a bit thick – something I hadn’t thought about when I bought my lining fabric. (I forgot to make a loop to hold down the end of the belt but I did make one the next day so I had it on when I wore the dress to work on Friday. It doesn’t stick out anymore.)

Spring for cottonn - Simplicity 2439 dress front detail - csews.com

I sewed my bodice pieces, following the instructions in How to Line a Sleeveless Dress from Blithe Stitches, a tutorial I used when I made a dress a couple of years ago. This dress has a side zipper. I left open the area just below the left armhole.

The skirt got a little tricky. I had to figure out how to sew the kick pleat in the back with the lining. The instructions direct you to first sew the two back skirt pieces together with  5/8″ seam allowance, and then sew the center back seam, which is about three inches in from the other seam. You then fold over this three-inch bit of fabric to one side and sew it together when you attach the bodice to the skirt. This center back seam runs about 2/3 of the skirt length. The area below the center back seam forms the kick pleat. I improvised as I figured out how to sew the kick pleat with the eyelet and lining fabrics. (I cut my eyelet fabric perpendicular to the grain so I could use the scalloped edge of the selvage as my hem. The dress hem is a straight edge, not a curved one, which makes it possible to do this.)

instructions - kick pleat - csews.com

I skipped the first seam with the 5/8″ seam allowance and just sewed the center back seam, leaving the area below the pattern mark open.

Skirt back - kick pleat - csews.com

Then I sewed the center back seam of the eyelet fabric and pinned it to the waist of the lining fabric. Clearly, the dress would be too thick around the waist – six layers of fabric (kick pleat adds another two layers) – so I cut the fashion fabric above the pleat with my pinking scissors, close to the seam line. I didn’t trim the lining fabric.

Kick pleat - eyelet fabric - csews.com

Then I placed the lining fabric on top of the eyelet fabric and sewed the 5/8″ seam. Here’s a detail of the kick pleat before sewing the 5/8″ seam.

Kick pleat sewn

After I finished sewing the kick pleat, I was ready to sew the skirt side seams. I sewed the lining and the eyelet fabric together at the side seams. It was hard to line up the eyelet across the seam. I began at the bottom so I would be sure that the eyelet lined up at that scalloped edge. I pinned and eased as much as possible but it was all slightly off on the side seams. I decided to let that go and not get stressed out about it. I’m not sure what made it tricky – maybe because I cut the fabric against the grain or that the embroidery of the eyelet distorts the fabric slightly so things are slightly off? I didn’t use any stabilizer so maybe that would have helped.

Here’s what it looks like completed.  The seam in the center is that 5/8″ seam I mentioned above.

Kick pleat completed - csews.com

But you really don’t see that seam in the back pleat. Without the pleat, I’m sure I wouldn’t be able to walk in this dress.

Spring for cotton - vintage Simplicity 2439 - csews.com

I attached the bodice to the skirt (note the zipper tape on the right). The waist seam is really thick – four layers of fabric and even more where the front pleats are. If I had to do this again, I would have picked a much lighter weight lining fabric. And I would add more ease in the hips. It’s not that it’s tight there but when I sit down, there’s small pool of fabric in my lap, which doesn’t look very good.

Waist seam - inside - csews.com

And here’s another photo of the finished dress!

Spring for cotton - vintage Simplicity 2439 dress pattern - csews.com

I really love the colors! I think I’ll do another post on accessories for this dress – the belt and fascinator. I was going to include info on making the belt and fascinator but it’s getting really long so I’ll save that for another day! Thanks for visiting and happy sewing!

Follow on Bloglovin follow us in feedly

Like this:

Like Loading...

Related


Filed Under: Dresses, Sewalong Tagged With: Britex Fabrics, cotton fabric, Lacis, Lucky Lucille, sewalong, Spring for Cotton, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. laurahoj says

    May 6, 2015 at 9:55 am

    This is so beautiful. The pink with the blue is perfect!

    Loading...
    Reply
    • Chuleenan says

      May 6, 2015 at 2:39 pm

      Thank you! I used to avoid pink but turns out I like bright pink – at least in small amounts. No pastels for me. 😉

      Loading...
      Reply
  2. seamsoddlouise says

    May 5, 2015 at 3:01 pm

    Great tip to press the darts in different directions I will try to remember that one! You have done a fantastic job, I would not have thought to put those colours and fabrics together and it looks brilliant. Well done.

    Loading...
    Reply
    • Chuleenan says

      May 6, 2015 at 2:37 pm

      Thank you so much! I recommend following Brooke’s IG feed for sewing tips. She’s also generous with advice when you post a question. I had been seeing a lot of eyelet lately so I wanted to try sewing with it. And I liked the idea of using a bright contrasting color behind it. 🙂

      Loading...
      Reply
  3. Brooke says

    May 4, 2015 at 9:33 am

    I love it! It turned out so well! The vertical eyelet on the bodice and the horizontal eyelet on the skirt adds some nice subtle visual interest.

    Eyelet is always a little tricky to sew because of the embroidered bulk around the holes but everything looks great how you did it! And the hot pink is beautiful with the cobalt blue!

    Loading...
    Reply
    • Chuleenan says

      May 4, 2015 at 9:40 pm

      Thank you! I really didn’t think about what sewing issues might come up until I began sewing. You’re right about the embroidered bulk around the holes! I feel lucky that it worked out. There’s maybe one dart in the back skirt that sticks out a teeny bit at the point because of the embroidery. But I don’t think anyone will notice. 😉

      I’m really happy with the colors! Glad you like them, too.

      Loading...
      Reply
  4. vivian says

    May 4, 2015 at 5:16 am

    Beautiful job, I love the colors. You did the kick pleat very well, I find them a bit of a pain. I might have to try your method.

    Loading...
    Reply
    • Chuleenan says

      May 4, 2015 at 9:35 pm

      Thank you! I made another dress from a vintage pattern a few years ago that didn’t use the entire length of the skirt for the kick pleat. It does seem like a bit of unnecessary fabric above the pleat.

      Loading...
      Reply

Comments, tips, or suggestions? I'd love to hear from you!Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Primary Sidebar

I love sewing, fabric, and hats and meeting people who sew! I've been blogging since 2011 and organizing monthly sewing meetups since 2014.

Join My List

POPULAR POSTS

Text: 2022 Sewing Pattenr Height Chart with illustrations of 8 women of different body shapes and heights

Sewing pattern height – a chart – 2022 update

My tenth blogversary!

Black woman with glasses and dreadlocks wearing ivory sweater

Q&A with Olgalyn of O! Jolly! + sweater knit kit winner!

Basic Black book cover

Basic Black Book Review and Giveaway!

Search

ARCHIVES

CATEGORIES

Footer

join my list

join my list
Closet find! Leftover fabric from my Pilvi Coat (2 Closet find! Leftover fabric from my Pilvi Coat (2nd pic)
🤍🖤
I was digging through my messy closet this weekend and found a couple of forgotten bags in the back and found about a yard of this cotton canvas fabric plus large scraps. I got it at @stonemountainfabric several years ago and made this Pilvi Coat.

I may be able squeeze another jacket out of it. Maybe a Friday Pattern Company Ilford Jacket or a  Papercut Stacker Jacket? I will likely have to piece together some parts but the fabric is busy so it should work. If you have any other pattern suggestions let me know!

Meanwhile - I neatly folded various memade woven tops - a bigger collection than I realized!

#FabricLove #AsciiArt #SewingJackets #BayAreaSewists #BayAreaSewistsMay #SewOver50 #SewOver50May
Day 13 of #MeMadeMay2025 - I finished my Ora Pinaf Day 13 of #MeMadeMay2025 - I finished my Ora Pinafore last night and wore it to lobby CA legislators today.
 
My union’s color is red so of course I had to make red dress! The fabric is linen curtains from IKEA. I bought two curtains thinking I would make a duster but I saw someone wearing the #SoftenStudio #OraPinafore at the SF Quilt Show and had to make it. This is my first one.

Also wearing my #FridayPatternCompany #AdrienneBlouse - fabric from #StonemountainFabric a few years ago.

#SewOver50 #SewOver50May #FPCMadeMade #MeMade #MeMadeWardrobe #MeMadeEveryday #MeMadeMay #BayAreaSewists #BayAreaSewistsMay
#MeMadeMay2025 - I was working from home today. #MeMadeMay2025 - I was working from home today. 

This ensemble is super comfy:

#RomeyGatherTop a #SewHouse7 pattern in a silk cotton blend I got years ago when the Fabric Store had an LA location.

The #TedraSkirt is an oldie but goodie that I made years ago. The denim is nice and soft after many washings. 

These are the glasses I wear when I’m not wearing contacts. 

#MeMadeEveryday #HandMadeWardrobe #BayAreaSewistsMay #SewOver50 #SewOver50May #Cousumain #SewistsOfInstagram
Day 8 of Me Made May - what I wore to work today. Day 8 of Me Made May - what I wore to work today.

I’m not documenting everyday, which is not a requirement of participating in Me Made May anyway - in case you were wondering. Some days I just don’t have time or don’t feel like taking a photo.

Here are the deets:
#PatinaBlouse @fridaypatterncompany in a linen I got from @moodfabrics during a work trip to NYC. I used snaps instead of buttons.

#LaraSkirt @just_patterns - left off the back pleats and added a tie to make an adjustable waist. See 3rd pic for back detail. Fabric from @britexfabrics 

I also wore my #JPChristyCardigan again. It goes well with this ensemble.
 

#MeMadeMay #MeMadeMay2025 #MeMadeMayEveryday #HandmadeWardrobe #BayAreaSewists #BayAreaSewistsMay #SewOver50 #SewOver50May #MadeWithMood #MadeWithBritex
#MeMadeMay25 - Today’s ensemble - Dew Dress by @ #MeMadeMay25 - Today’s ensemble - Dew Dress by @fridaypatterncompany and one of my favorite Pilvi Coats.
✨
The fabric for the #DewDress is from upstairs at @stonemountainfabric 
💛
The #PilviCoat fabric was from @britexfabrics before they moved to their current SF location.

#BayAreaSewistsMay #SewOver50 #SewOver50May #MeMadeWardrobe #MeMadeMay  #YellowDress #FPCMeMadeMay
I made the Christy Cardigan and another Cuff Top i I made the Christy Cardigan and another Cuff Top in April.

As soon as I saw @just_patterns #JPChristyCardigan I had to make it. 

I love the sleeves and I had this wool sweater knit fabric in my stash. The buttons are from @stonemountainfabric 

I got the pattern printed at @studiosessions.sewing so I could get going on it right away. 

Then I made the @theassemblylineshop #TALCuffTop last Sunday for #SewAprilBlouse25 and to wear to a work event in DC last Tuesday. 

Due to time constraints, I went with the Cuff Top, which I’ve made multiple times. I only had a little over a yard so I cropped it. And because it was going to be in the 80s (~27 C), I went with narrow elastic (1 cm). Wide elastic at the cuffs can get sweaty. I whipped it together in 2.5 hours.

I finally took photos yesterday. 

Also wearing @naughtybobbinpatterns Palazzo Pants in a linen rayon blend from @metrotextilesnyc. The other fabrics have been in my stash for so long I can’t remember where I got them. 

This is my first post for #MeMadeMay2025

#MeMade #MeMadeMay #SewOver50 #SewOver50May #SewnShownSeated
I’m happy to say that I brought a bag full of fa I’m happy to say that I brought a bag full of fabric and didn’t take NOT take any home. Mission accomplished! 🤗

✨ I organized this @bayareasewists Fabric Swap + Sewcial - which took place earlier today. You can see more in the #BayAreaSewists Reel. 

✨There was so much fabric but remarkably, only one table of leftover fabric, which w donated to the Berkeley Public Library for their sewing circle. 

Plenty of fabric went to new homes. Yay! 

I’m wearing the #AntheaBlouse (sleeve fabric is from a previous Bay Area Sewists event, the solid fabric is a Japanese cotton lawn from @stonemountainfabric purchased last year (I think). Palazzo pants (linen-rayon blend from @metrofabrics) are a @naughtybobbinpatterns pattern. I used the Anthea sleeves on my @carolyncassiepatternco Perth Blouse (see previous post) - and the same fabric combo.

Thanks to Bernice(@sewbee73) for taking my photo! 🤳

#BayAreaSewists #BayAreaSewistsApril #FabricSwap #Destash #SewingMeetup #SewOver50 #SewOver50Apr
Went to my first quilt show today and met @entropy Went to my first quilt show today and met @entropyalwayswins!

💙 Hillary is giving talks about her quilts twice a day (11:30 am and 2:30 pm). So great to hear the background of her quilts. 

💙 The #SFQuiltShow organized by @sfquiltersguild is on display through Saturday.

🪡 All of the quilts are Hillary’s except the last one. So great to meet you Hillary!

#SFQuiltersGuild #SewOver50 #SewOver50Mar
I made bracelets to match my Dew Dress with leftov I made bracelets to match my Dew Dress with leftover scraps!🤗

This idea is from the book Alabama Sewing + Design. Just take strips of jersey and make knots - and that’s it!

💛The Dew Dress is the second yellow garment I’ve ever made. It’s usually a color I avoid but not anymore! This dress is a really quick sew once you cut everything out.

Stay tuned for photos of the dress, which I wore to work earlier this week. 

💛Fabric from @stonemountainfabric upstairs.

#BayAreaSewists #BayAreaSewistsMarch #ScrapBuster #MeMade #Cousumain #SewOver50 #SewOver50Mar
Here are photos of my @CarolynAndCassie Perth Blou Here are photos of my @CarolynAndCassie Perth Blouse with sleeves from the @AnnaAllenClothing Anthea Blouse and my @AnneTilley.Patterns  Magic Pants 
🤸🏽🤸🏿🤸🏻
I made the blouse last month (see previous post for a closer look) and finished the pants last weekend. I took these photos on Monday before I left for work.
🩷
The pants are my February No Frills entry for #MagamSewalong hosted by @yogabyrdsews @suestoney and @sewing_in_spain !
I really needed some basic black pants and decided to try this pattern. I didn’t make a muslin - gasp - because they have a hidden expandable panel in front. So I decided to take my chances.
🖤
I shopped my stash and used a medium-weight wool fabric. The pattern is designed for linen so maybe that wasn’t the best choice as these are high-waisted pants and the wool is a little itchy. But I can wear them in the spring, fall, and winter in the Bay Area so I will get a lot of wear from them. I need to tweak the back a little but otherwise, they fit quite well!
🩶
Note on blouse fabric: I got the solid cotton lawn from @stonemountainfabric last year. The Liberty print was from a Bay Areas Sewists event several years ago.
.
.
.
#MagamNoFrillsFebruary #SewOver50Feb #SewOver50 #SewYourStash #BayAreaSewists #BayAreaSewistsFebruary  #DopamineDressing

Copyright © 2025 · C Sews · Blog Design by Little Blue Deer
Privacy Policy

We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. By clicking “Accept,” you consent to the use of all the cookies.
Cookie settingsACCEPT
Manage consent

Privacy Overview

This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary
Always Enabled
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously.
CookieDurationDescription
cookielawinfo-checbox-analytics11 monthsThis cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics".
cookielawinfo-checbox-functional11 monthsThe cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional".
cookielawinfo-checbox-others11 monthsThis cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other.
cookielawinfo-checkbox-necessary11 monthsThis cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-performance11 monthsThis cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance".
viewed_cookie_policy11 monthsThe cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. It does not store any personal data.
Functional
Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features.
Performance
Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors.
Analytics
Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc.
Advertisement
Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads.
Others
Other uncategorized cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet.
SAVE & ACCEPT
 

Loading Comments...
 

    %d