Free Range Slacks in black linen

I’ve had the Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks in my sewing queue for a long time (available in paper and digital versions). The pattern comes in two size ranges, standard (00-20) and curvy (18-34), with a max hip of 65″/165 cm. Way back in June 2020, I bought some coral linen fabric from Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics with the intention of making this pattern. This was when the store was not open to the public due to the pandemic so I bought the fabric online. When I saw the color in person, it just seemed too bright to me for a pair of pants. So I set the fabric aside for something else, maybe the Aura Skirt by Papercut Patterns.

It’s a bit discouraging when the fabric you purchase doesn’t quite fit the pattern you have in mind, isn’t it? And with Covid raging at the time plus a super busy job, sewing (and my blog) took a back seat.

Whole 30 Fabric Chalenge

I started the Whole 30 Fabric Challenge (hosted by @pinkmimosabyjacinta on IG) in July 2021. The challenge prompted me to make a list of all the garments. Just before I started the challenge, I had recently bought several fabrics with specific patterns in mind. I also went through my older fabrics, such as this black linen, and discovered I had enough. I also went through my patterns to see what I could make. The fabric is likely from a fabric wholesaler when she was getting rid of stock a few years ago. I can’t remember what she was charging but they were reasonable rates.

At the time, 30 yards seemed really daunting. I had not been keeping track of how much yardage I actually had. As I measured, I quickly realized that I had well over 30 yards in my stash — and I still have not measured all of my fabrics. If you haven’t measured/tracked your yardage, you might want to consider it. The numbers may surprise you. It doesn’t take very long to get to 30!

Mock-up of version 1

I made a mockup of version 1, the tapered leg design of this pattern. For my mockup, I traced and cut size 14 (hip 44″/112 cm), making a slight adjustment at the hip. I made it about 1/8″ smaller from the waist through hip on the side piece and the back piece (1/4″ on each side for 1/2″ total). I did that by folding the pattern pieces 1/8″ in at the center. Folding, not cutting, is a tip I learned from a Bay Area Sewists meetup a few years ago. I tried on my mockup and it seemed like it fit well. But I probably didn’t need to make that pattern adjustment. lol

When I sat down, I realized it was a little too tight around my calves, which would mean more wrinkles. I didn’t feel like making that pattern adjustment so I opted to make version 2, the straight, cropped design instead. I didn’t take photos of the mockup, which were made from a very cheap muslin.

I lined up the back pattern of version 2 against version 1 to see if the crotch curve was the same — and they were. So I cut size 14 as is, no adjustments. Sew House Seven designs for a height of 5’6″–5’7″ (168-170 cm). I’m 5’7″ so I didn’t make any height adjustments (see my pattern height chart).

Free Range Slacks, version 2

Making the Free Range Slacks, version 2, got me closer to 30 yards but not quite. [Side note: I broke my fabric fast in April. I blame it on the Nani IRO quilted cotton double gauze, which is only available at Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics. They had it quilted for their store. I got it in Airtime – Ocean. So I went nine months without buying any fabric, not bad. I was tempted many times by so many beautiful fabrics. But I resisted because I did want to sew what I have.]

This pattern was exactly what I was looking for, casual pants with an elastic waist. And that’s why it had been in my queue for such a long time. I think I finally started sewing them in early April. This is what my Free Range Slacks look like after wearing them about four times over the past week. A little wrinkly but not too bad. I sprayed them with water and let them air dry before I took these photos. 😉

The instructions for the Free Range Slacks are straightforward and easy to follow. I like the deep pockets. To attach the pocket lining to the pants, you topstitch on the outside. You can see the stitching outlining the pocket in this photo.

I followed the instructions until I sewed the front, back, and sides together. The next step was to attach the waistband. That’s when I decided to line the Free Range Slacks, which meant I had to buy some lining. More delays.

Lining the Free Range Slacks

My linen was a medium/lightweight fabric. I was concerned that it might not wear well — lining them will make them last longer. If you want to learn more about that process, read my post, Lining the Free Range Slacks. I wrote a separate post or this one would have been really long. Here’s an inside view of the waistband before I stitched the channel for the elastic.

The Bemberg lining feels great — smooth and breathable. I got my black Bemberg lining from Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics. Bemberg lining is made in Japan using a fiber called cupro, which is made from “unused cotton linter,” according to Apparel IX News.

The verdict

I love my Free Range Slacks! They are very comfortable and go with a variety of tops I’ve made. In these photos, I’m wearing the Asymmetrical Top from the Japanese sewing book, Drape Drape 2 by Hisako Sato. It’s made from one big pattern piece with just one shoulder seam and one side seam. I checked the book out from the library, but from what I recall, sizing is limited. I think the largest size was XL. This top is likely size L.

I plan on making another pair of Free Range Slacks, perhaps making them longer. I’m thinking ankle length — and in an Essex linen/cotton blend (pickle green) from Needles Studio.