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Fiddly Fabrics & More – Meetup at Britex Fabrics

November 14, 2014 By Chuleenan 10 Comments

We had a great Bay Area Sewists meetup at Britex Fabrics last Saturday morning – the topic was Sewing Fiddly and Slippery Fabrics. Douglas, a dapper and knowledgeable staff member at Britex pulled out various bolts of fabric – silk charmeuse and silk jersey as well as this white silk chiffon and silver mesh (see photo below) for us to look at and touch.

Prom Dresses UK

We met on the first floor of Britex, where you’ll find all kinds of silk and wool fabrics, including many imported luxurious fabrics – from cashmere and English tweeds to French silks and Italian wool crepe. It’s hard to walk by without touching them! (oooooh so lovely …)

I stopped by the store a couple weeks before the meetup to see about getting some swatches for this meetup and Dina, the store manager, very helpfully pointed out that swatches wouldn’t be large enough to give people a sense of how the fabric draped. So she cut nearly 1/4-yard pieces for a couple of them. Thank you!

She cut the first three fabrics, from left to right: iridescent silk chiffon, silk jersey (silver), and the light blue silk charmeuse, and then I went upstairs to the fourth floor where a staff person cut this fun cobwebby stretch mesh.

4 fabrics from Britex Fabrics

At the meetup I brought these fabrics and we passed them around as we listened to Douglas offer his tips and observations about sewing fiddly and slippery fabrics.

He advocates cutting silk chiffon and charmeuse as well as the silver mesh fabric (top photo) together with tissue paper. (The kind of tissue paper stores wrap your clothing purchases in or that you can get at the drug store in the wrapping paper section.) So you cut through the fabric and the tissue paper together. And you sew each of these fabrics together with the tissue paper, using a small needle size and a short stitch length. When you’re done sewing, you just gently pull away the tissue paper.

For the silk jersey, he recommended using a small ball point needle.

A Bay Area Sewists member asked how do you finish your seams if you’re sewing silk chiffon because you can see the seams? Douglas says he would trim the seam allowance close to the seam and then use Fray Check to prevent it from unraveling. Fray Check is made by Dritz and you can get it any fabric store or online.

My experience with Fray Check is that you need to use it sparingly because it can dry rather hard and you don’t want a hard edge to your fabric. Always test your fabric before using it to see how quickly one drop spreads. You don’t want to have any discoloration appear on the right side of your fabric because you used too much. you probably want to use a brush so you’ll have more control, rather than the tip on the bottle. I’ve just used the tip if I’m using it on the edges of a ribbon.

You may want to check out June Tailor’s Fray Block, which is also available at most fabric stores or online, including website here.  The thing about using Fray Block is that you’re supposed to run it under hot water for a few minutes before you use it, which is a little annoying. But it is thinner than Fray Check and seems to be more flexible.

Douglas also showed us a few of the other fabrics on the floor, such as this lovely tweed and he mentioned that he only cleans his wool clothes about twice a year. He says when he wears something wool, he just brushes it off at the end of the day and hangs it up. One Bay Area Sewists member mentioned that wool is anti-bacterial so it doesn’t get very dirty.

tweed at Britex Fabrics - csews.com

Douglas also said that fabrics have a finish on them that irritate his skin so he wears gloves when handling fabric in the store. If he buys fabric, he soaks it in cool water to remove those chemicals. Someone asked him whether dry cleaning fabric before sewing would work and Douglas said that that would just add more chemicals. Good point.

Gee, I just got a few yards of wool jersey at Britex a couple weeks ago. I was thinking about dry cleaning it. (sigh) So I asked Douglas if he would soak wool jersey in water and he said yes, but then you’d have to block it afterwards. Shoot. So I asked him if I could just lay it flat to dry and he said yes. I think I’ll cut a small square, stick it in some cool water, let it dry and see what happens.

Then we went upstairs to to fourth floor where chairs were set out for us to sit and hold the rest of our meetup. We were in a space near the windows and in front of these tempting rolls of on-sale fabrics.

rolls of fabric at Britex Fabrics - csews.com

I was busy facilitating the meeting so I didn’t take very many photos – sorry!

A few people brought some things they made to show and discuss with the group. I bought a rayon jersey long-sleeved top I made during my anti-interfacing phase a couple years ago. Unfortunately, the yoke sags because I didn’t use interfacing. Edina suggested taking it apart at the yoke and serging clear elastic to it – a nice suggestion.

I also passed around some fusible stay tape that I like to use on knits to stabilize the shoulder seams and along the side seams when matching stripes – Design Plus super fine bias fusible stay tape, which you can find at a well-stocked fabric store or online.

Other members recommend using a walking foot or Steam-a Seam Lite.

Loran of Loran’s World, not only wore a lovely dress she made from a vintage pattern, she brought two garments she made – one was a shirt she made for a Sew Weekly project. But she used cheap fabric from Jo-ann’s and cheap fusible interfacing. She didn’t finish the seams because she didn’t expect to like the shirt as much as she did. She wore it a lot and after a few washings, the interfacing started falling apart and the fabric along the seam allowance near the front collar had frayed all the way to the seam leaving a gaping hole and no way to fix it.

Loran says she now uses woven sew-in interfacing. She doesn’t use fusible interfacing any more. Fro her years as a costumer, she observed that eventually the fusible interfacing would bubble so she won’t use it any more.

I also bought some quilting spray-on temporary adhesive that you use to stick pattern  pieces to fabric, asking people if anyone had ever had experience with it. It says that it doesn’t gum up needles, etc. I was thinking of using it to stick pattern paper to a slippery fabric. One member said not to use it because it does gum up on your needle and to use freezer paper instead – an excellent suggestion!

I’ve used freezer paper when I’ve done a little fabric painting. You just iron the freezer paper to the fabric (use a low setting). The paper sticks to the fabric and the paint won’t bleed through. Then you peel off the paper when you’re done.

Another member brought a sleeveless top she made from silk chiffon. She did a nice job sewing it but she wasn’t too thrilled with how it looked on her because she felt it would be more flattering on someone with slim hips.

We also briefly discussed scissor sharpening – where do you get your scissors sharpened? One member mentioned that the San Mateo farmer’s market has a knife sharpener. I also did a little search and found that this San Mateo-based company Perfect Edge travels to a variety of farmer’s markets in the Bay Area – maybe this is the company someone was referring to? You can find their schedule here. I have not used them so I can’t vouch for the quality of their sharpening but their prices for scissors ($12) and pinking scissors ($14) are on this page so they do offer that service – though their main business is knife sharpening. They also have many drop-off locations, which you can find on their website.

I was at Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics earlier this week and asked a sales person where to sharpen scissors and was told to check out Golden State Sharpening – another mobile sharpening business. You drop your knives/scissors off at various designated locations the day before and pick them up the day after ($10 for fabric scissors).  The schedule’s on their website. Gee, I don’t know about dropping off my scissors… If anyone has found a scissors sharpener they like in the Bay Area, please let me know!

I remember years ago when was visiting my parents on the East Coast, that Jo-Ann’s had some scissors sharpening day. My mom had written down on her calendar, which is why I remember that. I don’t recall seeing that at the Jo-Ann’s in the Bay Area.

Oh, and I nearly forgot to mention – Britex gave each member a coupon for 20% off remnants and 10% off regularly priced fabrics (good for that day only). So we had fun browsing for fabric.

Bay Area Sewists browse at Britex Fabrics

Of course I had to browse the remnants on the fourth floor and found this red cotton lycra (2 1/8 yards, 50 ” wide) and this hounds tooth print (2 yards, 42″ wide). I love cotton lycra because it doesn’t wrinkle easily and I love this shade of red (more blue in it).

red cotton lycra fabric, houndstooth cotton fabric - csews.com

And when I got to the second floor as my inner voice was telling me “leave before you buy anything else!” I nearly made it downstairs to the register before I saw some wax prints – oh, my how interesting they were! I was told that the one I liked was a Dutch wax print, which was printed in Africa – a reminder that the Dutch empire had established a colony in Cape Town back in the 17th century.

I vaguely knew about African wax prints from the outfits I’d seen on Ginger of Ginger Makes who used a Vlisco wax print to make this Alder Dress and Oonaballoona who made a stunning skirt from a Dutch wax print. Both of these gals make me laugh because of the expressions on their faces in the photos on their blogs.

So I couldn’t resist buying this print – just $10/yard – clearly not a Vlisco, which is a pricey luxury brand. Admittedly, the color is not flattering to my skin (too close to my skin tone) but I think it could make a really cool skirt – maybe the Deer & Doe Chardon Skirt with inverted pleats. The fabric will far enough away from my face so it could work.

wedding dresses UK

If you want to find out more about wax prints, check out this interesting New York Times article “Africa’s Fabric Is Dutch,” on Vlisco, the Dutch company that produces wax prints in Holland. Vlisco fabric is very popular in Africa and has a certain cachet because it is so expensive. (Ginger says “I’d have to sell an organ to pay for this fabric!”) And read this post for more about wax prints, Vlisco and prints produced in Ghana,  “borrowed ideas: wax-print,” on African Lookbook.

I noticed that the selvedge of my fabric says “GUARANTEED REAL WAX ORIBA JLM HITARGET.” Well, according to the African Lookbook article, Hitarget is a Chinese company (!) that modifies Dutch designs, reprints them in new colors and sells them at low cost. And the post also stated that an “overwhelming majority (maybe as much as fifty percent) of the African prints sold in Ghana are Hitarget prints.” Sheesh. Well, I like the design – regardless of its origins!

Have you used any African/Dutch/Chinese wax print fabric in anything you’ve made?

Tips on sewing fiddly fabrics - silk cihiffon, silver mesh, stretch lace and more - a Bay Area Sewists meetup at Britex Fabrics

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Filed Under: Bay Area Sewists, Fabric Tagged With: Bay Area Sewists, fabric, Fray block, Fray Check, interfacing, mesh fabric, scissor sharpening, silk charmeuse, silk chiffon, silk fabric, silk jersey, wax prints, wool fabric

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Comments

  1. Ali B says

    November 27, 2014 at 9:10 pm

    Did anyone mention using gelatine? (As in…the stuff you use in cooking to make jello-like foods!) I just came across this article http://katyandlaney.com/2014/10/23/behind-the-seams-fabric-stabilizers/ and the top contender seems to be using gelatine. Crazy!

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    • Chuleenan says

      November 28, 2014 at 5:53 pm

      Oh, yes, I mentioned that I knew someone who used gelatin and she really like it. I forgot to mention that in my recap. Gelatin stiffens the fabric and makes it easier to cut. But you do have to wash it out, etc. It seems a bit time-consuming but people have had success with it. 🙂

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  2. Brooke says

    November 16, 2014 at 7:05 pm

    If you bought Spray ‘n Bond – that stuff is awesome and no, it doesn’t gum up the needle (some other brands do). I discovered it this summer when we were making Christmas parade costumes and I needed to applique stretch velvet on top of stretch velvet. It was a nightmare even with a walking foot until I started using the Spray ‘n Bond. It’s my new favorite thing!

    And fusible interfacing is good if you get the nice fashion kind. The Pellon stuff you find at JoAnn and other craft stores needs to be preshrunk to prevent future bubbling. You can preshrink by soaking in cool water and air drying before you cut into it. It’s kind of a pain so I find it easier to just buy the nicer fashion interfacing online.

    Looks & sounds like it was a fun meetup!

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    • Chuleenan says

      November 20, 2014 at 10:34 pm

      Oh, that sounds really great. Would you use it to help cut silk chiffon? Temporarily fix paper to the fabric so it’s easier to cut? Or is it only for a more permanent bond?

      I like woven fusible interfacing. I usually soak it in warm water and air dry because I’m paranoid about shrinkage. 😉

      It was a really fun meetup!

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  3. Paulinakoss Bruce says

    November 14, 2014 at 1:38 pm

    Hi Chuleenan,
    Thank you for this post. I was thinking about asking for a summary of what you guys learned at that meetup since I couldn’t make it. So glad you took the time to review it! Great tips!!! And that wax print

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    • Chuleenan says

      November 14, 2014 at 11:34 pm

      You’re welcome! Glad you found the info useful. I know I left some stuff out out, so I may add a bit more to this post later.

      Yes, that wax print really is something, isn’t it? There was less than three yards left so I bought the last of it. 😉

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  4. Jessica says

    November 14, 2014 at 1:38 pm

    Thanks for summarizing for those of us who couldn’t be there! I have one question: do you happen to know the price for the silver silk jersey?

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    • Chuleenan says

      November 14, 2014 at 11:29 pm

      You’re welcome! I don’t know the price of that silk jersey but I’d be happy to find out for you. I work downtown – just a few blocks from Britex. (Dangerous!)

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  5. Ginger says

    November 14, 2014 at 12:54 pm

    Can’t wait to see what you make with your wax print fabric! It’s so, so beautiful! Sounds like you have a great and really knowledgeable sewing community in the Bay Area!

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    • Chuleenan says

      November 14, 2014 at 11:27 pm

      Yes, I can’t wait to see something, too! It’s pretty stiff so I hope a good soak will take care of that. There ARE a lot of skilled sewists here, which is really great.

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Day 8 of Me Made May - what I wore to work today. Day 8 of Me Made May - what I wore to work today.

I’m not documenting everyday, which is not a requirement of participating in Me Made May anyway - in case you were wondering. Some days I just don’t have time or don’t feel like taking a photo.

Here are the deets:
#PatinaBlouse @fridaypatterncompany in a linen I got from @moodfabrics during a work trip to NYC. I used snaps instead of buttons.

#LaraSkirt @just_patterns - left off the back pleats and added a tie to make an adjustable waist. See 3rd pic for back detail. Fabric from @britexfabrics 

I also wore my #JPChristyCardigan again. It goes well with this ensemble.
 

#MeMadeMay #MeMadeMay2025 #MeMadeMayEveryday #HandmadeWardrobe #BayAreaSewists #BayAreaSewistsMay #SewOver50 #SewOver50May #MadeWithMood #MadeWithBritex
#MeMadeMay25 - Today’s ensemble - Dew Dress by @ #MeMadeMay25 - Today’s ensemble - Dew Dress by @fridaypatterncompany and one of my favorite Pilvi Coats.
✨
The fabric for the #DewDress is from upstairs at @stonemountainfabric 
💛
The #PilviCoat fabric was from @britexfabrics before they moved to their current SF location.

#BayAreaSewistsMay #SewOver50 #SewOver50May #MeMadeWardrobe #MeMadeMay  #YellowDress #FPCMeMadeMay
I made the Christy Cardigan and another Cuff Top i I made the Christy Cardigan and another Cuff Top in April.

As soon as I saw @just_patterns #JPChristyCardigan I had to make it. 

I love the sleeves and I had this wool sweater knit fabric in my stash. The buttons are from @stonemountainfabric 

I got the pattern printed at @studiosessions.sewing so I could get going on it right away. 

Then I made the @theassemblylineshop #TALCuffTop last Sunday for #SewAprilBlouse25 and to wear to a work event in DC last Tuesday. 

Due to time constraints, I went with the Cuff Top, which I’ve made multiple times. I only had a little over a yard so I cropped it. And because it was going to be in the 80s (~27 C), I went with narrow elastic (1 cm). Wide elastic at the cuffs can get sweaty. I whipped it together in 2.5 hours.

I finally took photos yesterday. 

Also wearing @naughtybobbinpatterns Palazzo Pants in a linen rayon blend from @metrotextilesnyc. The other fabrics have been in my stash for so long I can’t remember where I got them. 

This is my first post for #MeMadeMay2025

#MeMade #MeMadeMay #SewOver50 #SewOver50May #SewnShownSeated
I’m happy to say that I brought a bag full of fa I’m happy to say that I brought a bag full of fabric and didn’t take NOT take any home. Mission accomplished! 🤗

✨ I organized this @bayareasewists Fabric Swap + Sewcial - which took place earlier today. You can see more in the #BayAreaSewists Reel. 

✨There was so much fabric but remarkably, only one table of leftover fabric, which w donated to the Berkeley Public Library for their sewing circle. 

Plenty of fabric went to new homes. Yay! 

I’m wearing the #AntheaBlouse (sleeve fabric is from a previous Bay Area Sewists event, the solid fabric is a Japanese cotton lawn from @stonemountainfabric purchased last year (I think). Palazzo pants (linen-rayon blend from @metrofabrics) are a @naughtybobbinpatterns pattern. I used the Anthea sleeves on my @carolyncassiepatternco Perth Blouse (see previous post) - and the same fabric combo.

Thanks to Bernice(@sewbee73) for taking my photo! 🤳

#BayAreaSewists #BayAreaSewistsApril #FabricSwap #Destash #SewingMeetup #SewOver50 #SewOver50Apr
Went to my first quilt show today and met @entropy Went to my first quilt show today and met @entropyalwayswins!

💙 Hillary is giving talks about her quilts twice a day (11:30 am and 2:30 pm). So great to hear the background of her quilts. 

💙 The #SFQuiltShow organized by @sfquiltersguild is on display through Saturday.

🪡 All of the quilts are Hillary’s except the last one. So great to meet you Hillary!

#SFQuiltersGuild #SewOver50 #SewOver50Mar
I made bracelets to match my Dew Dress with leftov I made bracelets to match my Dew Dress with leftover scraps!🤗

This idea is from the book Alabama Sewing + Design. Just take strips of jersey and make knots - and that’s it!

💛The Dew Dress is the second yellow garment I’ve ever made. It’s usually a color I avoid but not anymore! This dress is a really quick sew once you cut everything out.

Stay tuned for photos of the dress, which I wore to work earlier this week. 

💛Fabric from @stonemountainfabric upstairs.

#BayAreaSewists #BayAreaSewistsMarch #ScrapBuster #MeMade #Cousumain #SewOver50 #SewOver50Mar
Here are photos of my @CarolynAndCassie Perth Blou Here are photos of my @CarolynAndCassie Perth Blouse with sleeves from the @AnnaAllenClothing Anthea Blouse and my @AnneTilley.Patterns  Magic Pants 
🤸🏽🤸🏿🤸🏻
I made the blouse last month (see previous post for a closer look) and finished the pants last weekend. I took these photos on Monday before I left for work.
🩷
The pants are my February No Frills entry for #MagamSewalong hosted by @yogabyrdsews @suestoney and @sewing_in_spain !
I really needed some basic black pants and decided to try this pattern. I didn’t make a muslin - gasp - because they have a hidden expandable panel in front. So I decided to take my chances.
🖤
I shopped my stash and used a medium-weight wool fabric. The pattern is designed for linen so maybe that wasn’t the best choice as these are high-waisted pants and the wool is a little itchy. But I can wear them in the spring, fall, and winter in the Bay Area so I will get a lot of wear from them. I need to tweak the back a little but otherwise, they fit quite well!
🩶
Note on blouse fabric: I got the solid cotton lawn from @stonemountainfabric last year. The Liberty print was from a Bay Areas Sewists event several years ago.
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#MagamNoFrillsFebruary #SewOver50Feb #SewOver50 #SewYourStash #BayAreaSewists #BayAreaSewistsFebruary  #DopamineDressing
My entry for #MagamJazzyJanuary - the Perth Top by My entry for #MagamJazzyJanuary - the Perth Top by @carolyncassiepatternco - in this beautiful Liberty print I got at a @bayareasewists meetup several years ago and a Japanese cotton lawn from @stonemountainfabric that a year or so ago. 
🤎
I used both fabrics to make two blouses. The other one is the Anthea Blouse. I wanted to wear one of them to a jazz concert I attended last night. So that’s really the only Jazz connection - other than the beautiful French button that’s been in my stash. It evokes Art Nouveau - so maybe that’s also jazzy? It was from a sample button card that a wholesaler gave me. I had three different sizes of this metallic maroon and also in metallic blue and green. 
❤️
I was hand hemming this top 30 minutes before we left for the concert. 😆 It’s been raining so I’ll take photos of both tops when the weather clears.
⛅️
Thank you to @suestoney @sewing_in_spain and @new_by_helen for hosting January’s #MagamSewalong 
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#Magam #BayAreaSewistsJan #SewOver50Feb #SewYourStash #BayAreaSewists #LibertyFabrics #TanaLawn #SewThePrecious
Ohhh - happy mail day! Finally spent my @juliaalli Ohhh - happy mail day! Finally spent my @juliaallissoncost gift cards (present from 2 of my sisters) and got the Blue Bouquet in corduroy (3 yds) and cotton poplin (a little over a yard)!
💙
Now I have the fun challenge of deciding what to make with these lovelies!
❤️
I’m pondering pants or skirt and a top. Any pattern ideas?
🤗
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#FabricLove #juliaallissoncosttextiles #CorduroyFabric #FloralFabric #SewOver50 #SewOver50Jan #BayAreaSewistsJan #HappyMailDay
My entry for #MagamDopamineDecember - a top using My entry for #MagamDopamineDecember - a top using the T- Shirt Dress pattern from the Nani Iro Sewing Studio book using Nani Iro double gauze. I lengthened the sleeves to the selvedge. I didn’t have enough fabric to make the dress so I made the top. I had to piece together four strips of fabric to make the bias tape for the neckline.
💙
You have to add seam allowance to this pattern so I added 5/8 SA so I could sew French seams. Double gauze frays and is somewhat delicate.
💙
In the second photo, I’m wearing my #MNHovea made from prequilted Nani Iro double gauze from @stonemountainfabric - the tee fabric is also from Stonemountain. The Mimosa Culottes pattern was re-released by @namedclothing earlier this year. I made these back in 2017. The cap is self-drafted. 
💙
Double gauze is super soft and comfy - but annoying to sew because I had to baste all my hems before sewing. See previous post for hem photo.
🪡
The dress pattern is boxy. The Basic Blouse pattern from the book is a little tapered. Maybe I should have used that pattern. But this used nearly all of my fabric so that’s OK. 
💙
Thanks to @suestoney @sewing_in_spain and @hportemanteau for hosting! Happy new year everyone!
🥳
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#magam #magamsewalong #SewOver50December24 #BayAreaSewists #BayAreaSews #NaniIroFabric #ShownSewnSeated #SewThePrecious #SewYourStash

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