My Maxi Chardon Skirt

Chardon maxi - Deer and Doe - front view - csews.com

Do you like maxi skirts? This is the first one I’ve made. I used Deer and Doe’s Chardon skirt pattern, which is knee-length, but I made it into a maxi length so I could show off this great wax print, which I got from Britex Fabrics. It’s a medium weight cotton that has a bit of stiffness to it but that works well with this pattern.

I bought the last few yards of it in November during a Bay Area Sewists meetup on sewing slippery fabrics.  The warm beige background color isn’t very flattering for my skin tone but I loved the print so much, I thought – as long as I keep it away from my face, I can make it work. And I knew I could wear it with black. (Warning: Many photos are in this post – construction details and more photos of the finished skirt.)

I debated on Instagram whether I should use the print horizontally or vertically (excuse the blurry photo but you get the idea).

#Chardon maxi skirt – use this African wax print vertical or horizontal?

A photo posted by C Sews (@csews) on

 

People liked it horizontal and vertical. But horizontally, it did look a lot like snakes. And as @Sewbrooke of Custom Style pointed out:

Definitely go with what you think you will wear more. It’s a fun print and it has an interesting illusion of movement in the vertical. =)

So I cut the fabric perpendicular to the grain so the squiggles would run vertically.

To lengthen the skirt, I sliced the front and back pattern pieces horizontally about 2/3 down and then added about 18 1/4 inches (46.5 cm) between the two pieces. I cut my fabric during my sewcationbefore I decided to move my invisible zipper to the left side. The pattern calls for a regular zipper in the center back but I wanted to use an invisible zipper, which I did in my first two Chardon skirts. It worked well with my first Chardon because the black zipper tab disappeared into the fabric. But I didn’t like how it looked on my second Chardon. The centered zipper tab bugged me.

Chardon skirt - zipper - Deer and Doe pattern - csews.com

Then I remembered that SewBusyLizzy had posted a photo on Instagram of Butterick skirt pattern B5756. I mentioned to her that I made version C, and she commented: “I’m going to move the zip to the side & get rid of the centre seams in the skirt.” Gee, why didn’t I think about moving the zipper before I cut my fabric back in December? Darn it.

A photo posted by Sewbusylizzy (@sewbusylizzy) on

 

So I have a center back seam that looks like this, but I’m fine with it. The print is so bold it doesn’t really matter that it’s cut off. If I make another maxi Chardon skirt I’ll eliminate the seam in the center back.

Chardon skirt - center back seam - csews.com

This skirt is supposed to have two side pockets. But I couldn’t figure out how to keep the pocket and install an invisible zipper so I removed the pocket on that side.

Chardon skirt - side pocket - csews.com

I’m sure there’s a way to incorporate a side pocket and an invisible zipper but I was too impatient to figure that out. I just wanted to finish the skirt. If you’ve installed an invisible zipper next to a side pocket, let me know how you did it!

The other change I made to the pattern was to add a lining instead of a facing. I used the facing to draft the lining pattern but I didn’t add enough ease to the side seams. I made the mistake of drawing a straight line from the facing to the bottom of the maxi-skirt length. I didn’t compensate for the pleats so my lining was a lot smaller than the skirt fabric around the hips. Whoops!

So I ripped out the right side seam (my zipper is on the left), traced the opening between the two lining pieces on some tracing paper and then cut out a strip of lining. I didn’t have any lining fabric left over so I took some of this ivory Bemberg from my stash and added it to the side seam, which you can sort of see here.

Lining for Chardon skirt - csews.com

Here’s a detail of what it looks like. No one’s going to know that my lining fabric doesn’t match, except me – and you. 😉

Chardon skirt lining - csews.com

Here’s what the lining around the invisible zipper looks like. This is the first time I machine sewed the lining around the invisible zipper. I usually hand sew it to the zipper tape. I followed Colette Patterns tutorial: A simple way to sew facings with invisible zippers – and it worked like a charm.

Invisible zipper and lining

I only have two other maxi skirts in my wardrobe – one is a 1970s era skirt I got at a vintage sale and the other is a cheap solid black one I got at H&M a couple of years ago. (I don’t shop at H&M anymore – especially after I read Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion by Elizabeth Cline. I reviewed the book here.) I don’t wear either of them that often though. The vintage one is made from a really heavyweight fabric – it’s almost like wearing a rug. I’ve tripped wearing the black one – the hazards of wearing maxi-length skirts – so I think I may cut that one down. The fabric is really lightweight and maybe that’s why it’s easy to trip on it.

I’m sure I’ll wear this one a lot more than my other two. It can be dressed up for night – especially with a fancy hat – and I can also wear it to work. I actually wore it to a jazz concert a couple of days ago – the lining still needed hemming but hey, who could tell, right?

This is my third Chardon skirt. I really like this skirt pattern. It’s very flattering and works so well for figures with wide hips.

And here are some more photos of this skirt. It was a bit warm and I shot this when the sun was very intense – thus the strong shadows.

Chardon maxi skirt - Deer and Doe - pocket - csews.com

Chardon maxi skirt - Deer and Doe pattern - back view - csews.com

Chardon maxi skirt - left view

Chardon maxi skirt - lining - csews.com

Have you made any maxi skirts? Do you wear them?

Deer & Doe - Chardon Skirt sewing pattern -lengthened to a maxi skirt
Deer and Doe Chardon skirt sewing pattern - lengthened to maxi version - African wax print fabric - CSews.com