My Vogue vintage 1950 jacket

Hi, can you believe it’s December already? This year went by super fast. At the end of November, I finished this cropped jacket from a Vogue vintage reissue pattern (V2934), which was originally released in 1950. (This version is now out of print. I got it on sale at Joann’s a few years ago.)

Vogue 2934 - 1950 vintage reissue - csews.com

I really like cropped jackets. I have a RTW black cropped jacket made from a double-knit that I’ve worn so much it’s starting to look a little shabby. So I thought this pattern could be a nice replacement but I wanted a jacket that could be easily dressed up or down. So rather than make it out of the suggested fabrics, such as satin, velvet, tweed, ottoman – I decided to make mine out of black sweatshirt fabric. I didn’t make a mock-up because this isn’t a fitted jacket and I wasn’t using expensive fabric. 😉

This jacket has 3/4 dolman sleeves, a flared back, and deep cuffs – very 1950s. It also has a lining and calls for hair canvas interfacing.  I made version A, which has a single button and bound buttonhole. I cut size L (16-18) as is, except for the following changes:

  • Added 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) to sleeve length
  • No lining
  • No interfacing except for a small piece of black fusible knit to the bound buttonhole area
  • Finished the raw facing edges and seams with bias tape

I decided I didn’t need any interfacing because sweatshirt fabric is a bit heavier than the recommended fabrics. I didn’t line it because I wanted to be able to feel the soft, fuzzy side of the sweatshirt fabric. (Note on the fabric: I machine washed and dried the fabric twice – per Sandra Betzina’s advice in her book More Fabric Savvy. She said sweatshirt fabric shrinks a lot so wash/dry it twice before sewing.)

There is a facing for this jacket. The lining would have covered all the raw edges but I didn’t line it so I finished most of my raw edges with bias tape. I made this bias tape for a jacket I made in 2011. It’s a very lightweight wool with a tiny hounds-tooth pattern. It has a nice drape to it. I had just enough to bind the center back seams, front and back facings, and the front hems. I finished the hem of the back with store-bought black bias tape from my stash.

Back facing - finished edges - V2934 - csews.com
Inside: back facing and center back seam

Here’s the inside of the front right side of the jacket. I had just enough bias tape to finish the edges of the front hem, which I slip stitched by hand.

Vogue 2934 - vintage reissue - facing - csews.com

I finished with cuffs with black bias tape and hand sewed it to the sleeve. Here’s a close-up view of the inside of the cuff.

Cuffs - V2934 - vintage Vogue reissue - csews.com

The pre-made bias tape is a little stiff so I thought it would be good for the flared back. Here’s another view of the back …

V2934 - back view - vintage Vogue 1950 reissue - csews.com

… and another shot that shows that flare. (I think I was looking back at the camera to see if the timer went off. )

V2934 - left view - vintage Vogue 1950 reissue - csews.com

In case you were wondering, a dolman sleeve is when the sleeve is cut in one piece along with the body of the garment. In other words the sleeve isn’t a separate piece. Here’s what the sleeves look like:

V2934 - dolman sleeves - csews.com

One thing I didn’t take into consideration is how much this flared style affects what you wear with it. This jacket looks best with something fitted, which means I can’t wear my Chardon skirts with it. Darn. The pleats pouf out around the hem of the jacket – not very flattering.

In these photos, I’m wearing my A-Frame Skirt, a Blueprints for Sewing pattern, which I blogged about here, and a vintage beret I bought from All Things Vintage in Oakland. This boutique in Oakland has a lovely selection of vintage clothes and hats.

Vogue 1950 vintage reissue - V2934 - front view - csews.com

I covered the button with the sweatshirt fabric. I just stretched it over the button and snapped the back on. Here’s a close-up shot of the collar and button. I didn’t realize that I put the buttonhole on the wrong side until after I made it. Oops.

Covered button - V2934 - csews.com

This was a fairly simple jacket to make – just six pattern pieces if you don’t line it (front, back, buttonhole, front facing, back facing, and cuff). I made it a little more complicated because I had to think about how I would finish the seams.

In case you’re wondering, here’s my list of materials:

  • 2  yards of sweatshirt fabric (60 wide)
  • bias tape
  • covered button
  • fusible knit interfacing for bound buttonhole
  • thread

I got the fabric on sale at Discount Fabrics in San Francisco. I probably got it for less than $10. I made most of the bias tape and the other materials were already in my stash. So this was a very inexpensive jacket to make.

I think I’ll get a lot of wear from this jacket (even if I can’t wear it with a Chardon skirt). I can pair it with jeans or dress it up with an A-line skirt. I like that it’s made from humble sweatshirt fabric. 😉

Do you ever pick unlikely fabrics for clothes you’ve made?

Happy Sewing!

WIPs: 1952 Wrap Blouse and Vintage Vogue Pattern

Deacades of Style 1950s Wrap Blouse - csews.com

I’m happy to say that I have two WIPs (works in progress). I traced and cut two patterns last weekend: Decades of Style’s 1952 Wrap Blouse and a dress from a vintage Vogue pattern. If you aren’t t familiar with Decades of Style Pattern Company, this Berkeley-based business reproduces vintage patterns from the 1920s through the 1950s. I made another pattern by this company, the 1940s Girl Friday Blouse, a couple of years ago. (You can see my version on this post: My Fall for Cotton 1940s Girl Friday Blouse Is Finished!)

I’m going to use this red polka dot cotton voile to make the Wrap Blouse. I originally got about five yards of this fabric on sale at Fabric Outlet in San Francisco to make a dress but it’s fall now and I’d rather make a top, which I can wear in the fall. Even thought it’s fall, it’s still pretty warm in the Bay Area so I think I can wear it for a while.

I’m making size B, which is for bust sizes 36, 38, and 40. Size B yardage is 2 3/4 yard (about 2.5 meters) for 44 wide, 2 yards (about 1.8 meters) for 60 wide. However, this fabric was 54″ wide, which meant that 2 yards would be too little. So I had to use about 2 3/4  yard to accommodate the large front pattern piece. As you can see from the photo below, my table wasn’t wide enough. I had to work on the floor to cut this pattern piece.

Wrap blouse front pattern piece - csews.com

But I did finish cutting the pieces and searched my stash of Petersham ribbon and found that I had a yard of red – yay. The pattern says to use grosgrain or Petersham ribbon for an inside belt. The pattern includes a belting guide so you can mark the center front and underarm areas. you can see my chalk mark on the ribbon below. I’m going to take a risk and just make this blouse as is. I’m hoping I won’t be swimming in the blouse because I’m not doing an SBA (small bust adjustment). I’m hoping that because it is a wrap blouse, it will be fine (fingers crossed!).

1952 Wrap blouse pattern pieces cut - csews.com

I can’t remember where I got this vintage Vogue pattern. It doesn’t have a copyright date but I think it has an early 1970s feel. What do you think?

Vintage Vogue 8343 dress patter - csews.com

The pattern pieces were really wrinkled! The previous owner just crumpled them up and stuffed them in the envelope. :/

I had never seen a pattern that wrinkled before. (The horror!) I’m the kind of person who will spend 15 minutes refolding patterns exactly as the printer folded them. I had to iron each piece and then discovered that the back facing piece was missing. But it’s just a small curving piece so I figured I could just draft one by tracing the top curve of the back pattern piece, which I did.

This dress has six sections – two front pieces, two side front pieces, two side back, and two center back.I think it would be fun to color block. I traced the woman in red on the pattern to see how that could look, which you can sort of see in the photo below.

knit wool color block - vintage Vogue dress - csews.com

I spent a small fortune at Britex Fabrics on two pieces of wool jersey – one was this black remnant and the other was this beautiful deep red from the first floor where all the expensive silks and wools are. I got 1 1/4 yards (1.14 meters) of the red – just enough for the center front and back pieces. I have plenty of the black for the sides and sleeves – if I make the long-sleeve version.

I traced the pattern pieces and decided that I needed more room in the armhole. The sleeves are fitted so I decided to drop the armhole about an inch. You can see the penciled in line below.

Sleeve - vintage vogue 8343 - csews.com

Oh, and before I forget – let me just mention that I broke out my new erasable highlighters for this pattern. Thanks to Brooke of Custom Style for her great tip, I now highlight all my pattern notches and markings so I don’t forget to mark my fabric before I remove the pins. (Brooke is a costumer and expert seamstress. You can see her various project in progress on IG (@sewbrooke).)

I like to use the pink highlighter because I’m not fond of pink so I won’t ignore the notches. 😉

Erasable highlighters - csews.com

I like this particular highlighter by Foray because you erase the highlighter using the other side – a white tip, which is also a marker but when you run it over the highlighter markings, the highlighter disappears like magic.

Foray erasable highlighter - csews.com

Pilot also makes an erasable highlight but it erases via the friction or heat generating from erasing. When you use the eraser end on it, your mark disappears but you can also tear your pattern paper from the rubbing motion. Because it is heat sensitive you could also use an iron to erase it but that could get annoying – turning on your iron to erase a highlighter mark.

You can get both of these highlighters at office supply stores.

I’m going to make a muslin of the dress from some brown jersey in my stash. It’s not really the same weight or hand, plus it has a touch of lycra in it, but I think I can at least check and see how the arms fit. Then maybe I’ll get some other knit fabric that is closer to the hand of my wool jersey and make another muslin. If you know a place where I can buy some really cheap wool jersey, please let me know.

Have you made anything from wool jersey? This will be my first time sewing wool jersey. I’ve only sewn cotton jersey, rayon knits, and fleece. If you have any tips, feel free to pass them on.

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