The Trench – Christine Haynes Pattern

Trench - Christine Haynes Pattern - Chic & Simple Sewing -

I’m on a stashbusting mission – spurred by The Quirky Peach, who launched a Summer Stashbust Challenge in June. I had intended to make The Trench from Christine Haynes‘ first book Chic & Simple Sewing but somehow never got around to it. A few years ago I had made two other versions of The Trench in solid fabrics (except for the bias tape, which was striped in one and houndstooth in another). You can see those versions here and here (warning – pix aren’t very good).

Joel Dewberry - Ginseng collection - Jasmine palette -

I’ve had three yards of this Joel Dewberry fabric, part of his Ginseng collection of cotton sateen home dec, since 2010 – yes, that’s a four-year delay! The image on the left is taken from Joel’s website so it has the correct color. Isn’t this fabric pretty? This is his Orchid design in the Jasmine palette.

It’s the fabric I picked for my first stashbusting projects. (Here’s my post on stashbusting.)

This is pattern is a TNT (tried and true) for me. It’s simple to make – with only seven pattern pieces to cu – front, back, sleeves, patch pockets, not including the bias tape. The only tricky part is the bias tape edging along the front edge and the neckline – you just need to be careful to catch the double-fold bias tape on both sides of the jacket. I didn’t do a very good job on the first one I made – my bias tape needed stabilizer. This is a medium-weight home dec fabric that didn’t need any stabilizer but it’s rather thick to sew at the beginning and end of the neckline where you have to fold over the ends.

The Trench - Christine Haynes pattern - Chic & Simple Sewing -

I used size large and only made one adjustment – I made the sleeves about two inches longer because I have really long arms and didn’t want my sleeves to end too near my elbows.

This jacket has raglan sleeves, which means the sleeves go right up to the collar (think baseball tee). This style works well with my broad shoulders. I didn’t have to do any wide shoulder adjustments! My biggest challenge in making this particular jacket was deciding which color bias tape to use. If you follow me on Instagram (@csews), you may have seen all the variations – hot pink, green, cream, fabric – and then finally the winner – the same fabric plus hot pink bias tape. (Special thanks to the many sewcialists who chimed in when I was pondering my bias tape options!) I did a lot of basting and pinning before I finally got around to sewing the bias tape – and then I had to rip out and redo some of the neckline because I didn’t catch all of the pink bias tape. :/

Here’s a compilation of the IG photos. The last photo is of one of my patch pockets. I put a little bit of pink bias tape along the top edge of the pocket. I thought about putting it around the bottom of the pocket but I decided to keep it simple.

Bias tape for the Trench -

I decided to use the green bias tape for a Hong Kong seam finish for the side seams and sleeves. The Trench is an unlined jacket so I thought that would give it a nice look on the inside.

Hong Kong seam finish -

And I do like the look but – wow – it sure is tedious because you have to sew the bias tape to each raw edge, which means two strips of bias tape per seam. Then I ran out of bias tape and I had to buy another package (grrrr), using nearly 6 yards total!

Check out those seams!

Trench - inside right

I used hot pink seam tape for the sleeve hems and the bottom hem, which you can see above. And here are a few more photos.

Trench - Christine Haynes Pattern -

I really like this jacket but I don’t think it goes with much of my existing wardrobe, so it’s not as versatile as I thought it would be. Actually, I have no idea what I was thinking when I bought it but I was really fixated on making this jacket with this fabric.

The Trench - Christine Haynes patterns -

I do have a few RTW things in a solid cream, such as this skirt and sweater but it’s not a color I wear very often. I have a lot of solid black in my wardrobe  so maybe I could wear that with this jacket in the fall. The large patch pockets are great. I can easily put my phone, keys, a small notebook, and more in these pockets.

The Trench - Christine Haynes pattern - Chic  Simple Sewing -

Here’s a closer shot of the front – you can see the flat piping.

The Trench - Christine Haynes pattern - Chic   Sim[le Sewing -

Finally, here’s  detail of my vintage beret. I got it at All Things Vintage in Oakland. It’s got eight sections, which gives it a nice round shape. It’s one of my favorite berets. Oh, and the lipstick I’m wearing is American Beauty by Besame Cosmetics. As soon as I saw it on Handmade by Heather‘s IG feed (@knitnbee) a couple of weeks ago, I had to get it.

Vintage beret -

Backstory of the shoot: I got up early because I knew it would be overcast in the morning and the cloud cover would be gone in a couple of hours and I wanted to avoid the hot California sun that would cast stark shadows. I walked to my shooting location, set up my tripod and shot about three test shots using my digital camera’s timer. Then the battery died! The one time I didn’t check the battery. Auugh! So I traipsed home, plugged in the charger for about an hour and hoped that would be enough power – luckily it was.

What are you making this summer? Are you using any stash fabric?

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Summer Stashbust 2014!

Fabric from my stash -  - C Sews

My fabric stash is growing along with my list of projects I’d like to make – and my husband occasionally gives my piles of fabric the evil eye, mostly because it’s taking up some space in the bedroom. But it can be a challenge finding the time to sew. So the patterns and fabric keep growing. When I saw the words “Summer Stashbust 2014” on Instagram in June, I thought “A-HA! That’s what I need!!”

I first saw it in @thenerdyseamstress‘s IG feed. She regrammed it from @thequirkypeach. I soon started looking through my fabric and patterns and trying to decide what to make. I don’t have a huge stash of fabric – but I do have a couple large plastic bins and some in a wood chest – no closet or room full of fabric. But if you don’t have a lot of space to begin with, it doesn’t really make sense to keep accumulating fabric.

Some fabric is relatively new to my stash, and some has been sitting around for a few years. For example, in the above photo, the fabric on the far left is from a fabric swap from a couple of months ago. The green print fabric next to that is a Joel Dewberry design that I got about four years ago.

Stashbust 2014 - red circle fabric - - C Sews

The red print on the right with ying-yang circles on it has been in my stash for a long time. It’s a cotton/lycra blend. I really liked the colors but the circles are rather large and a bit overwhelming. I didn’t know what to do with it. But when I took it out over the weekend, I realized, hey, I could use the fabric on some of the skirt panels of a By Hand London Anna Dress! I could alternate between solid red and the print. (I made my first Anna Dress last month, which you can see here.)

So the next day, I went over to Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics to see if I could find a nice solid red to go with this stash fabric. I looked at several red cotton fabrics but they were a little too crisp. I needed the hand of the fabric to match the stash. One of the store’s staff showed me a Kaufman Radiance cotton/silk blend that was a really good match for the red. I didn’t like the shiniest so I’m actually going to use the other side, which is more matte but has a slight sheen to it that matches my stash fabric. It’s the solid red in the photo above.

Then I finally checked out The Quirky Peach’s post “Summer Stashbust 2014,” and saw that I’m not supposed to buy any fabric from June 21 to Sept. 21. Oops. I bought that red fabric on June 22.

I couldn’t use that stash fabric without buying the Radiance fabric so I guess that’s my excuse but I’ll try to stay on a fabric diet for the rest of that time period! Oh, but I will make an exception for the Bay Area Sewists fabric swap that’s happening on July 26. But I won’t get any more fabric unless I give some away – so technically I won’t be adding to my stash. 😉

Meanwhile I’ve already started used a couple of yards of my Joel Dewberry fabric to make The Trench” – from Christine Haynes 2009 book Chic & Simple Sewing. I’ve already made two from this pattern and I’ve been meaning to make another one from this fabric for ages and ages. If you follow me on IG (@csews), you’ll already be familiar with it because I’ve been posting photos of it as I worked on it. Here’s one of my WIP (work-in-progress) photos.

Trench - WIP photo -

I’d like to make more tops, skirts, and dresses. I’m looking forward to sewing up some of my stash fabric.

Do you have a fabric stash? How big is it and how long have you had some of that fabric?

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