I won the drawing for a straw hat fedora! Last weekend I was thrilled to go to my first hat fitting.
How did this happen? Well, I donated money to hat designer Elwyn Crawford’s Indiegogo campaign and one of the donation levels was to contribute $5 to be entered into a hat drawing for a straw fedora. I had already made one contribution to her campaign but when she added that perk, I couldn’t resist.
I usually buy ready-to-wear hats – either vintage or from a store or craft fair. As some folks may know, I wear hats everyday. (You can read more about my love of hats on my Hats page.) It was a new and exciting experience for me to actually be fitted for a hat.
The hat-fitting experience is similar to what you would do when you sew a garment. You choose your fabric, your pattern, and you have your measurements at hand. In this case, I was choosing which straw form would be made into a fedora.
The first thing Elwyn did was to measure my head. Then she brought out a stack of straw hat forms. There are many different forms woven in different patterns and with straw of various shades. Elwyn will then shape the hat into a fedora (cutting down the brim, shaping the crown, and so on). She told me to pick out a few that I liked and then we would narrow it down. I chose these four. I really liked the lacy look of the two hats above. Elwyn has pushed in the crown of three of the hats in a fedora-like shape to give me a sense of what it would look like.
I put each one on but the lacy ones had more of a yellow tone that didn’t do much for my skin. The white hat form looked the best so that is the one I chose.
Elwyn brought out a few hats for me to try on to see which shape and brim width were the right shape for me. She took into consideration the height of the crown as well as the width of the brim and how the hat shape went with my face. We decided that the black straw hat fedora was The One (see photo below).
I wanted to give Elwyn a sense of my style, which would help her decide what hat design is best for me. I decided to wear something that I would wear to work. So I wore my Cake Patterns Hummingbird peplum top along with a silk polka dot skirt. (You can get this easy-to-make sewing pattern at Cake’s Etsy shop.) I finished making this top last week. I made a blue one in June, which I blogged about (“My First Sewalong – Hummingbird 30 Minutes a Day“).
Elwyn asked me if I had any fedora hats and I told her I had one wool one but hat I didn’t wear it very much. Fedoras are a rather masculine hat. She assured me that she would make sure it had a feminine look to it. She also asked me if I wore polka dots a lot. I told her I just had this one skirt but that I had other skirts with circles and swirls on them.
Creating a hat is a personal endeavor – and Elwyn strives to make something that is not only the right fit but suits the client’s personality.
So now I’ll be waiting a few weeks for Elwyn to do her magic and then I’ll meet her again to see how the hat fits and to decide on how to trim the hat. I can hardly wait!
Here are some more photos of Elwyn’s studio, which is part of the 25th Street Collective in Oakland. She not only creates her hats here, her creations are also on display. As you can see, she’s very talented!
Oakland hat designer Elwyn Crawford is dedicated to her craft. She didn’t take a vacation for eight years. “I was OK with that,” says Elwyn. “I knew I wanted to grow my business and source my materials.”
As a result of Elwyn’s singular focus, in 2011 she was finally able to work on her hat business full-time. Her creations under the label O’Lover Hats are made to order. As a result, Elwyn says, there is no waste. “My hats are made to fit people’s lives,” notes Elwyn. “We throw away so much.” And the last thing she wants to do is create more landfill. (To read more about her hat-making process, see my earlier post “Q&A with Elwyn Crawford of O’Lover Hats.”)
Elwyn is also part of the 25th Street Collective, a artisan business incubator comprised of a group of artisans who share warehouse space and more in Oakland. “We share production space, showroom space, resources, and knowledge,” says Elwyn.
“As artists we really want to affect change,” continues Elwyn. “And one way is through building up economic development to create small-scale ethical production in Oakland.”
I spoke with Elwyn last Saturday for more than an hour about her hats and her company. This is Part 2 of our interview, in which we discuss how she would like to expand her business and offer apprenticeships in hat making. [Full disclosure: I donated a modest amount to Elwyn’s crowdfunding campaign.]
It’s a San Francisco-based women-owned company and part of our story is that I”m a woman-owned company – so there’s a direct line there. Also with Indigogo, you get to keep all your money even if you don’t make your goal. If you make your goal, Indigogo takes 4 percent. If you don’t make your goal, they take 9 percent. When I created my high goal [$23,000], I thought it was realistic.
I’m trying to bring in more some larger donors and spreading the word. I have some presentations lined up and I’m reaching out to small business organizations.
The number one goal of the campaign is to generate more public knowledge about what we’re doing.
How would the apprenticeship program work?
It’s a six-month program – the first part being an introduction and shop support, observation and small-skills development. The next step would be learnignthe craft of hatting. The goal is to really train someone and then there’s a job waiting for them with the company. I want to start the apprenticeship program immediately. I want to find one student to come on this summer. I have had a few apprentices in the past. Now I want to get it formalized.
I’m young to be doing it. But it’s the only way to do it.
To pass on the craft of hat making.
Yes. I started teaching workshops in 2008, 2009, a couple years after I started doing free-form blocking. I just love teaching. I come from a family of academics.
I want to continue this craft. We’re working to bring more equipment in so we can have more tools and blocks as well as get in the materials to create more hats. We’re moving towards sustainability.
I want to maintain the craft by training young people for jobs as we grow, to develop computer skills in 3-D designing and use artisanal techniques to create quality hats.
Will you offer scholarships?
The first part would be unpaid and then it assesses the fit. Is it really a god fit for this person? Then it will move to a paid apprenticeship at minimum wage and then to wages for an entry-level sewer. We hope to offer a living wage. That’s sets us aside. There’s not a lot of places that could support that.
We have a love for hats, arts, and crafts. There’s a strong artists’ presence there [at the 25th Street Collective]. There’s a large group of makers that have been coming together and saying, “We can make a difference. Give us a chance.”
July 12: Evelyn raised $5,196 from her Indiegogo campaign. You can check out the details on her Indiegogo page. I ended up donating a second time when she added a new perk – $5 to enter a drawing to win a white straw fedora. And guess what? I won!! I’m going to my hat fitting tomorrow. I’ll be sure to take plenty of photos!
Elwyn Crawford of O’Lover Hats has been making custom hats in Oakland, California, for nine years. Today I had the pleasure of interviewing her in person at Farley’s East cafe in Oakland. I first met Elwyn at a street fair about five or so years ago in Rockridge, an Oakland neighborhood, where she was selling her hats. I remember admiring her creations back then and recently got back in touch when we found each other on Twitter (her handle is @oloverhats, mine @csewsalot).
I decided to interview her when I learned that she was in the middle of an ambitious Indiegogo crowdfunding campaign, “O’Lover Hats: Think Global – Hat Local,” to expand her business and start an apprenticeship program. (Full disclosure – I made a modest donation to her campaign because I love to support local artists and crafters.)
This is Part 1 of our interview. I typed as she spoke so any errors and omissions are the result of my slow fingers! The transcript has been edited and condensed. On Monday, I’ll post Part 2, which will include Elwyn’s comments on her campaign. All the hats in the photos below are original designs by Elwyn. The felt hats are truly works of art. I need to start saving for a handcrafted hat! They are gorgeous.
How did you get started making hats?
I got started by going to flea markets, getting vintage hats, and taking them apart and putting them back together again.
Describe the first hat you made.
The first hat that I made was a cranberry wool felt that I got at the Alemany Flea Market in San Francisco. I had been steaming and cleaning hats and beginning to work with this hat. Every hat that I worked on I wanted to change and make my own. The relationship I wanted to have with them was giving them a new life – make them fresh and new. So I cut the brim and reshaped the crown and put some trim on. It was easy because I wasn’t working on any blocks. I was just doing hand sewing.
It was just something I wanted to wear at my cousin’s wedding. I was still sewing it in the car as my brother was driving. I got a lot of compliments on it at the wedding. I got to say, “I made it!”
Were you scared about cutting up a vintage hat? Or were you just fearless?
I felt fearless – I wasn’t thinking about selling them at all.
When did you start making hats to sell?
I started selling my hats less than a year after I started playing with them. The first time I sold them was at end of 2005 – at Chillin, an annual design event in San Francisco. I sold two hats – they had a very strong vintage look at that time. I sold at Chillin for first five years of my business. [Chillin, organized by Irene Hernandez, celebrates its 15 anniversary tomorrow! There will be 200 artists and 80 fashion designers this year, along with plenty of live music. Tickets are $15 at the door – 444 Jessie St. in SF.]
I was doing reclaimed vintage with increasingly daring designs. They were like a mashup, a combination of elements of different hats. I worked as a DJ for a while so it made sense. putting together different hats together.
How did your work change?
I met a milliner Jasmin Zorlu, who told me I should put hat size in my hats. I didn’t know how to do that and she said she would teach a workshop. She invited me to her apartment for a private workshop – and it went from there. She taught me hand blocking and a new obsession was born. You block it, you steam it, and you can just play. I thought wow, I can do anything and make a hat.
As an artist that felt really liberating. I thought, I’m going to start a business doing this. I was doing assemblage. I love to do things in three dimensions. I was quickly obsessed – blocking everyday. There was so much freedom.
How did you make a living?
I waitressed at first and I worked at the farmer’s market. I tapered off waitressing after a couple of years and just did the farmer’s markets. Then two years ago I made the leap and went into doing my work full-time. I was busy all the time. I went through The Women’s Initiative program and graduated with a business plan.
I wouldn’t advise someone to do it the way I did it. It was more of an intuitive process. I that first year, I still did some odd jobs I’d pick up here and there – gardening, catering jobs. Then those became less and less. That was when it became really important to have a business plan – to really beginning to moving from part-time to full-time and know how much you need for your rent and materials.
In the last several years it’s been more about learning to create a stronger business and how I can have wonderful creativity and go in new directions, how can I do things that are reproducible.
Are your clients people who wear hats a lot or people who are looking for a one-of-a-kind hat for a special occasion?
My clients fall into a couple of categories. My clients are people who love to wear hats. The love to know the artist and participate in the creation process. It’s customized and they don’t have to worry about where it came from and they can feel good about it.
My clients are also people who have really small or large heads. They have already been looking for hats for a while so when they find me they are like, “Ding!”
Are your clients in any particular age range?
They tend to be in the mid-30s to 50s, people who are established in their style. They know who they are and what they like. They also have a predictable income.
What should people know about handmade hats?
To embrace a handmade hat is an investment. If somebody is not really sure about getting a handmade hat and they are just curious, I will tell them to explore elsewhere first.
I used to try to take any client who showed an interest, but now I know that can be a very hard job for me to create a hat for that person. The pressure’s too much. I don’t want there to be a “Oh, I might wear it” response. I want to feel like I’m doing a service.
How much time do you spend with a client to determine what’s the right style and color?
It really depends on the style of the hat. I have at least two meetings with clients. The first meeting usually lasts 45 minutes. I do a style consultation. I learn about their intentions and hopes for the hat. I present materials, do a color and style analysis, and take into consideration their build and shape.
I build the mock-up of the hat that we’re doing. Then we have a fitting and we see what type of modifications have to be made. I finalize the trim and then there’s a final fitting.
Sometimes there will be a special feature, such as buttons or a family heirloom. We’ll put that on and maybe make a couple nips and further fitting. Custom hats take four to eight weeks to create depending on how much I have in tow at the time.
The average time to make a hat is about six hours, sometimes a bit more or less. With hats, it’s gotta fit right. If it’s too loose it won’t look right. If it’s too tight, you’re going t o get a headache.
The head is made out of bone so hats are very customized to fit.
What you do is very similar to what a custom dressmaker would do – with the measuring and fittings. How much does an O’Lover Hat cost?
Custom hats start at $250. I have headbands and bows for $55. My fascinators start at $100.
I really want to develop the under $100 product line. They still take time to produce though. The hats have kept me busy.
What inspires you?
Nature. The oceans and all the life in it. Growing patterns of plants. Spirals. Symmetry. I really get inspired by material: how each material has a personality and feel to it, my relationship to the material as an artist and how it relates to other things.
I’m inspired by people, personalities. I’m inspired by Oakland now, the challenges it faces as city with a really vibrant culture.
In Part 2 of the interview, which I’ll post on Monday, we discuss the expansion of her business and her Indiegogo campaign “O’Lover Hats: Think global – hat local” and more about her hat-making endeavors, including where she sources some of her raw materials.